Megamind’s Bat Slippers

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Megamind has the coolest bat slippers ever.  So of course I had to recreate them!

Materials
– Red Heart Super Saver in Black and Red
– H Hook

Gauge
– The first four rounds of the main slipper should be about 3.25 inches across

Notes
– There is only one size for this pattern: adult woman’s about an 8 or 9 shoe size. However, the basic slipper is really easy to adapt.
– I prefer the “wrongside” of hdc, the side away from you as you work it in the round, as the outside of the slipper. The only time this actually matters is when doing the heel and I have notes for this part.

Basic Slipper Pattern (make two)
– With black, chain 4 and join into a ring
Round 1: Ch 1 (does NOT count as a stitch throughout), 10 hdc in ring, join to top of 1st hdc (10)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each hdc around, join (20)
Round 3: Ch 1, (hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st) around, join (30)
Round 4: Ch 1, (hdc next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st) around, join (40)

– Work 16 rounds of hdc, joining at the end of each round, or until you have reached where you want to put the heel
– Chain 20, Skip 20 and slst in the next (21st) stitch. This becomes the new start of round.
– Ch 1, hdc in each hdc and ch around, join (40) Note: Be careful of the slst marking the old start of round. To avoid a gap, you may wish to hdc it together with the first chain
– Ch 1, hdc around, join
– Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each hdc around, join to top of chain 3
– Ch 1, fpsc around chain 3 at start of previous round, ch 1 (counts as starting fpdc), (bpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc) around, ending with a bpdc. Join to top of “starting fpdc” and FO

Note: Regardless of which side you prefer out, make sure the “front” side of the hdc is facing outward. If you prefer the backside to be facing out you will probably need to turn the slipper inside out.

– Join black to the opening for the heel.
– Ch 1, hdc 40 sts around opening, join (40)
– Ch 1, (hdc in next 2 sts, hdc2tog) around, join (30)
– Ch 1, hdc in ea st around, join
– Ch 1, (hdc in next st, hdc2tog) around, join (20)
– Ch 1, hdc2tog around, join (10)
– FO and sew the gap closed in a line across the heel

Bat Wings (make 4)
Note that you are to turn at the end of each row
– With black, chain 6
– Working along the backside of the chain, sc 5 (5)
– Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog (5)
– Ch 3, 2 sc along chain, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st (8)
– Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, ignore rest of row (5)
– Ch 3, 2 sc along chain, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts (6)
– FO

Sew to sides of slippers

Eyes (make 4)
– With red, chain 9
– Working along the backside of the chain: slst 2, sc, hdc, dc 2, hdc, sc
– FO and tie end tail to start tail to make edge a little pointier

Sew to front of slippers

School Bus Bank

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Materials:

  • Plastic Canvas (for internal frame)
  • Worsted Weight Yarn in yellow and grey (I used Red Heart Super Saver)
  • Worsted Weight yarn scraps for embroidery
  • H hook or hook needed for gauge
  • Small amount of fiber fill
  • Buttons

Building the Frame

The frame is built from plastic canvas.  You will need to cut out five pieces to the following dimensions:

  • Front & Back (so cut out two): 2″ x 1.5″
  • Sides (cut out two): 1.5″ x 4″
  • Bottom: 2″ x 4

Now we stitch it together into the shape of a box.  I used some yarn and simply whip stitched it together through the edge rows.  It doesn’t have to be pretty as it will be hidden.

 

The Actual Crocheting

Unless otherwise noted, at end of rows chain 1 and turn.

GAUGE: Finished bottom panel should be the same size as the bottom of the frame.  Actually, all panels should match their frame counterparts, just the bottom one is the simplest and the largest, so if it fits the others should as well.

Bottom:

– With yellow, chain 8
– Working into the back bump of the chain, sc along chain (7 sc)
– Sc 15 rows
– FO

Sides (make 2)

– With yellow, chain 15
– RS: Working into the back bump of the chain, sc along chain (14 sc)
– Sc 1 row
– Slip stitch along row in the front loops only
– FO yellow
– With the right side facing, join grey to the first free loop on the last row of sc
– Sc along the free loops to end of row (14 sc)
– Sc 3 rows
– Fo

Front

– With yellow, chain 8
– Working into the back bump of the chain, sc along chain (7 sc)
– Sc 2 rows
– FO yellow and join grey
– Sc 2 rows
– Fo grey and join yellow
– Sc 1 row
– FO

Top

– With yellow, chain 8
– Working into the back bump of the chain, sc along chain (7 sc)
– Sc 3 rows
– Split: Sc 2, ch 1 & turn (2 sc)
– Sc 6 more rows
– FO yellow
– Skip 3 stitches from the split and join yellow.
– Sc 7 rows
– Sc 2, chain 3, sc 2 on other half to close central hole
– Sc 4 rows (7 sc)
– FO

Back

– With yellow, chain 8
– RS: Working into the back bump of the chain, sc along chain (7 sc)
– Sc 2 rows
– FO yellow and join grey
– Sc 1, sc 1 in flo, sc 3, sc 1 flo, sc 1
– RS: Sc 1 row
– FO grey and join yellow
– Sc 1, sc 1 in flo, sc 3, sc 1 flo, sc 1
– FO
– * Holding piece with right side face, take note of the four free loops, two at the bottom of the window and two and the top. Join yellow to on of the bottom free loops.
– Chain 2
– Slip stitch in the free loop directly above
– FO
– Repeat from * for the other pair

Assembly
Weave in ends on all pieces. Embroider warning lights onto front, and do any other embroidery you wish. Stitch together sides, front, back, and bottom into an open topped box. Slide frame inside, then stitch the top onto the box.

Outer Flap

– With one of the sides facing, join yellow to the first slip stitch.
– Chain 2 (counts as a dc), dc in next sc, (ch 2, skip 2 slst, dc in next slst) 4 times, dc once more in last slst (15 sts)
– Sc 2 rows
– Sc in flo
– sc 3 rows
– Slst 6 loosely, chain 3, skip 3, slst 6 loosely
– Sc 4 rows
– Sc blo
– Sc 1 row, chain 3 and turn
– Dc into 2nd sc (chain counts as first dc), (ch 2, skip 2, dc in next st) 4 times, dc in last st
– Sc 2 rows
– Button holes: Slst 2, ch 3, slst 5, ch 3, slst 6, ch 3, slst 2
– Fo

Weave in ends. Fold flap over to find the spots to sew on buttons, then sew on buttons.

Front Thingy

Note: “Inc” means to put 2 sc in next st, I’m lazy.

– With yellow, chain 6
– Sc 5 along chain, turn and sc 5 along other side of chain, join (10 sc)
– Ch 1, inc in first st, sc 3, inc in next two stitches, sc 3, inc, join (14 sc)
– Ch 1, inc, sc 5, inc in next two stitches, sc 5, inc, join (18 sc)
– Ch 1, sc in ea st around, join
– Ch 1, sc in ea st around, join
– FO

Embroider on headlights and grill. Sew to front of bus, stuffing lightly.

If desired, sew on some big black buttons to create wheels.

Voila! Bus!

Eugene, the squishy pants doll

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Struck by a fit of boredom, I conceived and idea for a pair of pants. Not a pair of pants that could potentially fit onto a toy, but a pair of pants that actually are a toy. And here he is in all his blue-jean-y glory.

Materials
I used:
– Red Heart Super Saver (in color Royal Blue I believe) and an H hook
– A small button and some thread to sew it on
– Two “doll eyes”
– Some nylon yarn for embroidery, but only because I couldn’t find my black RHSS or cotton

Pattern
Starting at the bottom of one leg, Chain 2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– 2 sc in each sc around (12)
– (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around (18)
– Working in the Back Loop Only (BLO), SC in each st around
– Sc 6 rounds plain
– FO

Repeat for second leg, but do NOT fo

Place a marker in the 5th stitch from the hook. Hold legs next to each other. On the first leg, the one that has been finished off, SC 14. There should be 4 stitches left unworked on that first leg. Now, starting with the marked stitch, sc 14 on the second leg. 28 stitches in total.

– Sc 5 rounds plain

At this point, I sewed on the button, did the embroidery, and attached the eyes.

– Working in the BLO: sc 4, (sc in next st, sc2tog) 3 times total, sc 5, (sc in next st, sc2tog) 3 times total, sc in last st (22)
– Sc 4, sc2tog 3 times, sc 5, sc2tog 3 times, sc in last st
– Slst 5 times, FO

Stuff pants and sew top seam.

Two Headed Teddy Bear

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Hook and Yarn
I used Red Heart Super Saver in “Warm Brown” and an H (5mm) hook, but feel free to use any yarn and hook you wish.

Pattern
Heads

ch 2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– 2 sc in each st around (12)
– (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around (18)
– (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (24)
– Sc 4 rounds plain
– (sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog) around (18)
– (sc in next st, sc2tog) around (12)
– FO

Repeat for second head, but DO NOT finish off

Attach Heads:
– Sc 9 sts on the first head (the finished off one), skip 3 sts on the second head, sc 9 sts on the second head (end of round)
– Sc 1 round (18 sts)
– Stuff each head and sew up the gap between them

Body

– (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (24)
– (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (30)
– Work 10 rounds plain
– (sc2tog) 5 times total, sc in the next 18 sts, sc2tog (24)
(The decreases form the bear’s butt)

Legs

– Sc 2, ch 3, skip 12 sts, sc in next 10 sts
– Sc 15 around, including 3 sts in the chain
– Stuff the body portion
– Sc 3 rounds plain
– (sc in next st, sc2tog) around (10)
– Stuff Leg
– sc2tog around (5)
– FO

– Attach yarn to other leg opening
– Sc 15 around
– Sc 4 rounds plain
– (sc in next st, sc2tog) around (10)
– Stuff Leg
– sc2tog around (5)
– FO

Arms (make 2)

Ch2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– 2 sc in each st around (12)
– Work 5 rounds plain
– FO

– Stuff arms and sew to body

Ears (make 4)

Ch 2
– 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, turn
– 2 sc in each st (6)
– FO

– Sew ears to the heads

Snouts (make 2)

Ch 2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) twice (8)
– Sc 1 round plain
– FO

– Embroider nose/mouth on snouts then sew to face
– Embroider eyes onto faces

Meap

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Anyone who has watched Phineas & Ferb ought to know who Meap is.  He’s the adorable little alien that crash lands in their backyard on afternoon.  Of course, things are never what they seem.  Meap’s no helpless little thing – he’s actually an intergalactic security agent that can shoot a rainbow colored death ray from his mouth.

I crocheted this little version of Meap for an event on Ravelry, and now I am writing up my pattern so that you can as well.  Obviously the character belongs to the creators of the show, and I trust that if any of them actually notice this (and really, what the heck are those odds? Ha!) they’ll recognize it for what it is – a loving tribute.  Seriously, if you haven’t watched the show do it!!  I mean it, ’cause it’s freakin’ awesome.

I didn’t notice until after I had already completed him that cartoon Meap has a little tail, so it’s not included in this pattern.  To be honest, I don’t like making tails that much, even little ball tails like his, so I probably would have left it off anyway…

Head

Meap’s head is crocheted in two parts – a front and a back.  Because of his coloring, what with the pink back of the head and white front, this is easier.  Trust me.

Front
With white:
– ch 2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– inc around (12)
– [sc 1, inc] around (18)
– [sc 2, inc] around (24)
– [sc 3, inc] around (30)
– [sc 4, inc] around (36)
– [sc 5, inc] around (42)
– SC one round plain
– Sl st 3 and FO

Back
With pink:
– ch 2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– inc around (12)
– [sc 1, inc] around (18)
– [sc 2, inc] around (24)
– [sc 3, inc] around (30)
– [sc 4, inc] around (36)
– [sc 5, inc] around (42)
– SC 6 rounds plain
– Sl st 3 and FO

Body
The torso is crocheted in one piece, from the bottom up.

With white:
– ch 2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– inc around (12)
– [sc 1, inc] around (18)
– [sc 2, inc] around (24)
– SC 4 rounds plain
– [sc 4, dec] around (20)
– SC 1 round plain
– [sc 3, dec] around (16)
– SC 2 rounds plain
– Sl st 3 and FO

Ears (make two):
The ears are crocheted from the center of the bottom outwards, and then crocheted along the bottom to both add a little length and stabilize the bottom. They should look more or less like little half circles.

With pink:
– Ch 2
– 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1 turn
– Inc in each st, ch1 turn (6)
– [sc, inc] 3 times (9)
– ch 1, sc 6 along bottom edge of ear
– FO

Arms (make two):
With white:
– ch 2
– 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– [sc, inc] twice (6)
– sc 3 rounds plain
– slst 1 and FO

Legs (make two):
With white:
– ch 3
– 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in next ch, turn and sc2 in backside of the ch that already has 2 sc in it. (8 sc)
– SC 1 round plain
– SC 2, dec, dec, sc 2 (6)
– SC 1 round plain
– slst 1 and FO

Finishing
The two halves of the head should be sewn together, stuffing before you finish of course. Ears should be sewn to the top sides of the head, set back a bit into the pink half. Then stuff the body and sew the head and body together. Then stuff and sew on the arms and legs.

I cut the eyes from felt and used hot glue to attach. I can’t make any guarantees about this method as this is the first time I’ve attempted it. You may find sewing or embroidery is a better choice for your doll.

The mouth is embroidered on with black yarn. Cartoon Meap technically has an underbite, but that wasn’t practical to do in crochet, so instead I’ve embroidered it to resemble the effect. You can find pictures of Meap here at the P&F Wiki for reference.

Simple Yarn Snowflake

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I came up with this snowflake years ago, and just never got around to sharing it properly. This is a really simple snowflake, done in any yarn you want. If you do it at a tight enough gauge you probably won’t even need to block it unless you just really want to, and the same goes for stiffening it.

Yarn and hook I used
Red Heart Super Saver
F hook

Pattern
– Chain 4 and join into a ring
– ch 1, (sc in ring, ch 7, slst in 4th ch from hook, [ch 3, slst in same ch as before] twice, slst 3) 6 times, slst in 1st sc
– FO

Finishing
I personally like to leave the starting and ending tails long, and just tie them together to make a loop to hang the flake with. However, if you like, you can weave in the ends, block/stiffen if you so desire, and add your own hanger.

Doll in a Kitty Costume

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See more pictures on my Ravelry project page (it’s public)

This doll is made almost in one piece. The only sewing that is needed is to attach the bottoms of her feet. If her feet had looked better simply sewn closed, she would have been made in one piece, and you are fully free to do that if you so desire. Everything else is crocheted right onto the doll.

This doll has floppy arms and legs, and can sit if you weight her bottom, unlike prior dolls I have done in one piece. Her hat has tiny kitty ears and her bottom has a short tail.

Note: I use the term “free loops” a heck of a lot in this pattern, so it’s vital that you know what I mean. Here is a page that sort of explains it, but basically the “free loop” is the half of the stitch left behind when you have been working in just the back loops or just the front loops. I have you attach the yarn into these loops to do things like make the hair or start the arms and legs.

Also Note: This pattern is the most complex of my dolls to date. She’s not hard to make, but if my instructions confuse you at all please feel free to leave a comment or send me a message on Ravelry.

Materials I Used
– Red Heart Super Saver in Buff and Yellow
– Caron One Pound in Orange
– H Hook
– Doll Eyes (I lost the package so no idea what size, sorry!)

Special Stitches
Ear: Chain 2, sc in 2nd chain from hook. Note that this does NOT count as a stitch on the next round.
Tail: Chain 6, slip stitch loosely into the back of the 2nd ch from hook and the remaining 4 chs. Note that this does NOT count as a stitch on the next round.
DEC: Insert hook under the front loop of the next stitch. Twist around and insert the hook under the front loop of the stitch after that as well. Yarn over and draw through both front loops. Yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. One decrease made. Note that if the instructions have you working in the BLO, do the same except use the back loops instead of the front loops.

Instructions:
Note: Pattern is worked in the round without joining, so be sure to mark the beginning of the round.

Hat

RND 1 – With orange, CH 2, 6 SC in 2nd ch from hook
RND 2 – 2 SC in each sc (12 sc)
RND 3 – (SC in next st, 2 SC in next st) around (18)
RND 4 – SC in next 2 sts, 2 SC in next st, SC in next st. Make EAR. SC in next st, 2 SC in next st. (SC in next 2 sts, 2 SC in next st) twice. SC in next st. Make EAR. SC in next st, 2 SC in next st, SC in next 2 sts, 2 SC in last st. (24 sc and 2 ears)
RND 5 – SC in each st around, remembering to SKIP the ears (24 sc)
RND 6 – SC in each st around
RND 7 – SC in the FLO of each st around, slip st twice, FO orange

Head and Hair Setup
-Turn hat inside out and hold it so that you will be inserting the hook going from the brim towards the top. Attach Yellow to the free loops left over from the last round of the hat and SC in each free loop around (24 sc)
– Draw the loop big and remove hook. Do NOT cut the yellow yarn.

Head
RND 1 – Attach Buff and SC in the BLO of the yellow hair ring. (24 sc)
RND 2 – Turn hat right side out now. Making sure the yellow loop/yarn is in front, and continuing around with the Buff, SC around
RND 3 – SC in each st around
RND 4 – (SC in next 2 sts, DEC) around (18 sts)
RND 5 – (SC in next st, DEC) around (12 sts)

Hair
– Remove hook from the Buff but do NOT cut the yarn. Insert the hook into the dangling Yellow loop.
– Fold back the edge of the hat. We will now be working in the free loops that are now exposed.
– SLST in the first free loop
– (CH 8, SLST in the next free loop) 9 times
– (CH 3, SLST in the next free loop) 7 times
– (CH 8, SLST in the next free loop) until you are out of free loops
– CH 8, SLST in the first slip stitch
– FO Yellow

Body
– If you are using plastic eyes, now is a good time to insert them. Note that the beginning of the round should be towards the back and the eyes should be relatively centered between the two ears.
– Now would also be a good time to stuff the head
– Insert the hook back into the dangling Buff loop
RND 1 – DEC around (6 sts)
RND 2 – SC in each st around
RND 3 – SC in next st, changing to Orange as you finish the stitch. SC in same st, 2 SC is each of the remaining sts (12 sts)
RND 4 – (SC in next st, 2 SC in next st) around (18 sts)
RND 5 – (SC in next 2 sts, 2 SC in next st) around (24 sts)
RND 6(arms setup round) (SC in the next 7 sts, SC in the BLO of the next 5 sts) twice
You may wish to stuff the neck some now
RND 7 – SC in each st around
RND 8 – SC in each st around
RND 9 – SC in each st around
RND 10 – SC in each st around
RND 11 – SC in each st around
RND 12 – SC in each st around
RND 13 – SC in each st around
(Note, if you lost count that was 7 rounds of plain sc)
RND 14 – SC in the next 5 sts, Make TAIL, SC in the remaining sts of round
RND 15 – SC in each st around, remembering to skip over the tail
RND 16(Leg setup round) (SC in next 2 sts, DEC) 3 times. Working in the BLO, (SC in next 2 sts, DEC) twice, SC in next 2 sts. Working normal again, DEC to end the round (18 sts)
Stuff body
RND 17 – (SC in next st, DEC) around (12 sts)
RND 18 – DEC around (6 sts)
FO Buff and cinch up bottom

Note that at this point you have a doll body with free loops where the arms and legs will be attached. Also note that while it appears there is only one section for the legs, each leg will be worked over half of that section.

Legs
Hold doll so that the head is pointed downwards. Attach Orange to the first leg free loop.
– SLST in the first 5 free loops. CH 1, turn.
RND 1 – SC in the front loops of each of the slip stitches. Turn and SC along the other side of the slip stitches. You will now be working around in a spiral once again. (10 sts)
RND 2 – SC in each st around
RND 3 – SC in each st around
RND 4 – SC in each st around
RND 5 – SC in each st around
RND 6(foot setup round) SC in the next 8 sts, CH 3, SC in 2nd chain from hook and in the next chain as well. SC in last two stitches of the round.
RND 7 – SC in next 8 sts. SC 2 in the edge of the chain from the previous round, SC in the two new sc from the previous round, SC in last two stitches of the round (14 sts)
RND 8 – SC in each st around
RND 9 – SLST 3, FO orange

Attach Orange to the first free loop directly after the first leg and make a second leg.

Arms
Hold the doll with the head downwards and one of the arm spots facing you.
– Attach Orange to the first free loop and SLST in each of the 5 free loops, CH 1, turn
RND 1 – SC in the FLO of the slip stitches, turn and SLST along the other side of the slip stitches. You will now be working in a spiral once again. (10 sts)
RND 2 – SC in each st around
RND 3 – SC in each st around
RND 4 – SC in each st around
RND 5 – SC in each st around
RND 6 – SC in each st around
RND 7 – SC in the FLO of each st around. SLST 1, FO Orange.
– Folding back the edge of the orange sleeve, attach Buff to the free loops.
RND 1 – SC in each free loop around (10 sts)
RND 2 – SC in each st around
Stuff arm
RND 3 – DEC around (5 sts)
FO, stuff arm more if needed, cinch up opening

Repeat for the second arm.

Food Pads (make two)
With Orange, CH 5
RND 1 – 2 SC in 2nd ch from hook, SC in next 2 chains, 2 SC in last chain. Turn. Now working along the backside of the chain, repeat what you did for the first half of the round. (12 sc)
SLST twice, FO

Finishing
– Stuff the legs and sew the foot pads over the openings.
– Embroider face if you haven’t already
– Weave in all ends if you haven’t already

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