Simple Knit Ball


Note that these are the original instructions from when I first wrote them.  (The written notes I have somewhere in one of my notebooks is even worse)  I have rewritten the instructions to (hopefully) be more clear.

Simple Knit Ball

Time Rating
One Hour

History & Notes
I made the pattern for this ball ages ago as the head for a doll. Never made it past there, but it actually makes a better ball. It’s knitted flat and sewed up the side. The suggested needles and yarn are what I designed it on. Anything will work though. The ball is all stockinette stitch.

Doesn’t matter

Suggested Needle Size and Yarn
US Size 6
Worsted weight yarn.

-Co 6
-K 1 row
-P and inc in every st (12 sts)
-Work 2 rows even
-K and inc in every st (24 sts)
-Work 9 rows even
-Dec in every st (12 sts)
-Work 2 rows even
-Dec in every st (6 sts)
-K 1 row

Break yarn and pull through remaining stitches. Pull tight and then sew up side of ball. Stuff to desired firmness. Run the sewing yarn through the cast on stitches, pull tight, and fasten off.


New Notes

Yeah, I certainly could have written that better if I’d actually known the names of the increases and decreases I used.  Not that it really matters, since my goal was to double or halve the stitches.  With that in mind, anything (written like this) is a note.  Usually about ways you may want to try something different.  For example, I currently don’t think long-tail cast on is the best cast on for the job, provisional may be better.

Yarn, Needles, & Gauge

Not particularly important.  Pick something that won’t let too much stuffing show through and you ought to be good.


– Cast on 6 stitches.  (Note that I originally designed this with a long tail cast on, but anything ought to work)

– Knit a row.

– Pfb across row – 12 sts (You can alternatively use any increase you want as long as you double the amount of stitches)

– Starting with a knit row, work 2 rows in stst

– Kfb across row – 24 sts (Same as last increase row, just double the stitches)

– Starting with a purl row, work 9 rows in stst

– K2Tog across – 12 sts (Same as increases, you just want to halve the stitches here)

– Starting with a purl row, work 2 rows stst

– P2tog – 6 sts (Halve the stitches again)

– Knit 1 row


I’m stuck with just my laptop’s webcam at the moment, so please excuse the slightly blurry pics.  These two samples were made with size 8 needles and Red Heart Super Saver yarn.  They’re really quite quick to make, and ridiculously easy.

Squares and Triangles Hat

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Affectionately nicknamed the “I heart grannies” hat.

This hat doesn’t have to be made with granny squares, but they’re one of the simpler squares out there. I’ve provided instructions for them, but feel free to substitute with any square and triangle pattern you wish. Pay specific attention to anything bold and underlined.

Finished Diameter: Approximately 20 inches

Now this isn’t so much a pattern, as a recipe. I give you the basic direction, and you fill in where needed. You could even knit the squares and triangles if you so desire.

First thing you need is a square pattern. Below is directions for a basic granny square, but feel free to substitute with any square. Instructions are written the best I can for beginners, so please feel free to skip this section if you already know how to make a granny square.


Basic Granny Square
Ch 4 and join to first ch with a slst to make a ring.

-Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 3. (3 dc in ring, ch 3) 3 times, join to top of the beginning ch 3. (4 dc groups and 4 ch 3 spaces)

-Slst in each dc to and into next ch3 space. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same space, ch 3, 3 dc in same space, ch 1. *(3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 1) in next ch 3 space. Repeat from * in each remaining ch 3 space. Join to top of original ch 3. (8 dc groups, 4 ch 3 spaces, 4 ch 1 spaces)

-You should see a pattern emerging, so this part is written a little differently. Again, slst to and into the next ch3 space. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same space, ch 3, 3 dc in same space, ch 1.
Next is a chain 1 space. Into this space, put 3 dc and then ch 1.
Now we have a chain 3 space. In this space, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 1).
Continue working around like this, following the instructions for ch1 and ch3 spaces as you come the them. Then join to the top of the starting ch3.

-To keep making the square bigger, simply keep working like the previous round, putting (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1 space you come to, and putting (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 1) in each ch3 space you come to.

I apologize if this has only served to confuse you, as this is simply the way I see granny squares. Here’s a couple of links that might work better for you:


Next you need to know the size of your finished square. I would suggest sticking to 4 or 5 inch squares, but go ahead and use larger or smaller as you wish.

Divide 20 by the size of your chosen square. This is how many squares you need to make for the diameter. This is why I suggest 4 or 5 inch squares. But as long as it comes out even (or real close to even because most crochet stretches pretty good) you ought to be fine.

Now you need a triangle pattern. I used a basic granny triangle pattern, which is a just a granny square with one less side. If you want to use my instructions for a granny square, simply replace the first round of -Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 3. (3 dc in ring, ch 3) 3 times, join to top of the beginning ch 3. (4 dc groups and 4 ch 3 spaces) with this:

-Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 3. (3 dc in ring, ch 3) 2 times, join to top of the beginning ch 3. (3 dc groups and 3 ch 3 spaces)

This type of triangle tends to turn into a shallow cup but it’s ok.

Measure the length of one side of your triangle and then divide 20 by that amount. That is how many you need. You probably don’t want to go much smaller than 4 inch sides. Smaller than that and your hat will have too small of a crown. If you are using 4 or 5 inch squares, it’s best to use that same size for your triangles to make it easy.

Sew all the squares into a strip. If you want your hat body to be longer than just that strip, feel free to add more rows of squares to the bottom.

Lay the strip horizontally and sew the triangles to the top. If you used triangles the same size as your squares, it’s as simple as sewing one triangle to the top of each square. If they are different sizes, just start at one end and work across.

Sew the ends of the strip to each other to make a loop. Don’t sew the triangles just yet though. This is a good point to try on the hat and see if it fits.

Sew the seams between each triangle. This forms the crown of the hat. Don’t forget to sew up the hole that forms between the top points.

Weave in ends and enjoy!


Here is an example showing the specs of my hat

Please excuse the paint diagrams, I didn’t take pictures.

I used red heart super saver and an H hook. Using the granny’s described above, I did four rounds and they turned out to be about 5 inches.

Which means I needed a grand total of 4 of each. Here’s them sewn into a strip with the triangles sewn on top.

Then it was sewn into a ring:

And then the crown was sewn up:

If the written instructions confuse you, I hope these badly drawn diagrams help.

Do note that this ought to work just as good with knitted squares and triangles as it would with crocheted ones.

CPK Cardigan Style Tank Top

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I made this for my sister ages ago.  I never thought to check gauge, but at least it’s a small shirt and not a human sized sweater, right?  Chances are it’ll fit some doll even if it’s a bit too small for a CPK.

Worsted Weight Yarn
I Crochet Hook
3 Buttons

Unless otherwise stated, always end each row with a Ch 1, turn

Button Hole: ch1, skip a st and sc in following st

Shirt Bottom:
Ch 49
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in ea ch across.
Row 2 (button hole row): Sc 2, make a button hole, sc remaining sts
Row 3: Sc across row. When you reach the ch1 sp, sc into the sp, not the ch.
Rows 4-6: Sc across row
Row 7: Repeat button hole row
Row 8: Repeat row 3
Row 9: Sc across row
Row 10: Sc 9, slst 7 (1 arm hole curve made), sc 16, slst 7 (another arm hole curve made), sc 9

Right Front:
Row 11: Sc 2, make a button hole, sc 5 *Row now ends here* – 9 sts
Row 12: Sc 7, dec 1 – 8 sts
Row 13: Dec 1, Sc 6 – 7 sts
Row 14: Sc 5, dec 1 – 6 sts
Row 15: Dec 1, Sc 4 – 5 sts
Row 16: Sc 3, dec 1 – 4 sts
Row 17: Dec 1, Sc 2 – 3 sts
Rows 18-19: Sc across row
Fasten off

Left Front:
Attach yarn in last st on other side of top
Row 20: Sc 9 * row ends here* – 9 sts
Rows 21-29: Repeat rows 12-19
Fasten off

Attach yarn in first sc after one of the arm hole curves (doesn’t matter which)
Row 30: Sc 16 * row ends here* – 16 sts
Rows 31-38: Sc across row
Fasten off

Fold one side of front in until the edge of the tallest part of the front matches up with the edge of the back. Sew shoulder.
Repeat for other side of front.
Sew buttons in place and hide all ends.

Super Easy Super Awesome Scarf

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What do you do when you need a fast christmas gift?  Whip up a ridiculously quick scarf!  I’m not entirely sure why I picked this name way back when, but whatever.  The example was made for my sister several years ago.

Doesn’t matter

Hook Size and Suggested Yarn
US Size Q Crochet Hook
2 or more strands of worsted weight yarn.

-Ch at least 91 (make it as long as you want the scarf to be)
-Using your favorite stitch pattern, go until the scarf is as wide as you want it. (For sc, go for at least 12 rows)
-Fringe any way you want!

Story behind fingerless mitts

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This was originally posted at the original blog, which has come back up long enough for me to save this!

Have you ever knit something, and not seen it until it was complete? No, I’m not talking about a knitting machine with a sheet over it. I’m talking about knitting blindfolded.

I guess it doesn’t have to be a blindfold. You could probably do it under a blanket or just with your eyes closed. But the temptation to peek is quite overwhelming. Because I wanted to take no chances, I had my sister blindfold me.

I haven’t the slightest idea why I wanted to be surprised, but I did. And I was.

The only thing I knew was that I’d be knitting on size 8 needles and that I was aiming to pull out yarns that felt like worsted weight.

I knew that I wanted to knit something that could be done in one sitting, so I went with a K2P2 ribbed rectangle that I could later sew up into a really basic fingerless mitt. Sizing while blindfolded is a pain in the rump, but since I knew my gauge with the needles well and had a hat nearby that I’d knit to the same gauge, I was able to estimate things.

For two whole hours I knit blindfolded. I don’t know why it took two hours to knit what turned out to be 30 rows on 28 stitches, but it did. After a while you stop noticing the fact that there’s nothing to look at. Or at least that’s how it worked for me.

When I finally felt it was long enough, I then had to bind off in pattern. Binding off can be tricky even when you can see what you are doing. Blindfolded? Let’s just say it takes a while and some definite concentration.

I then finished off, chucked all the skeins on the floor and tucked the finished knitting under my blanket.

Ever notice the world seems a little bland after having your eyes shut for a while? Maybe not for you, but it always has for me. I guess the world through touch is more “colorful” than through sight.

Anyways, I removed my blindfold, put my glasses back on, and pulled out my knitting. Astonishingly, the colors didn’t suck together! In fact, I think they’re pretty darn nice. Though they’re nothing I’d have chosen if my eyes had been open.

A little bit of stitching, a few ends woven end, and voila!

After wearing one around for a while, I knew I needed a second or else I’d look silly. So I knitted it’s match. This time with eyes open of course, so they’d match. Didn’t feel like it took as long, but I did knit it while watching baseball so there you go.

And that’s it! The story of how I knit something before I ever even saw it. :D


Intrigued? Want to try it? Well grab yourself something to act as a blindfold, your favorite knitting needles (or crochet hook), your stash, and maybe a friend to blindfold you and keep you company. This works best with a disorganized stash as you don’t want to know what colors you are picking. Remember to pick something to knit that won’t take very long and that you can do with no or little problem. And pick something simple. I wouldn’t suggest cabling or anything with much shaping.

Spider Web Square

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A square I designed ages ago during math class.


Ch 4, join into a ring with a slst

Ch 6 (counts as first dc and a ch 3), (dc in ring, ch 3) 5 times, join with a slst in 3rd ch.

Slst into ch sp, ch 6, dc in same ch sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3) in next ch sp, dc in next ch sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3) in next ch sp, (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3) in next ch sp, dc in next ch sp, ch 3, join with a slst in 3rd ch.

Slst into ch sp, ch 6, (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3) in next ch sp, dc in next ch sp, ch 3, dc in next ch sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3) in next ch sp, dc in next ch sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3) in next ch sp, dc in next ch sp, ch 3, dc in next ch sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3) in next ch sp, join with a slst in 3rd ch.

Ch 1, (2 sc in next ch sp, *(sc, 3hdc) in next ch sp, (2 dc, 1 tc, ch 3, 1 tc, 2 dc) in next ch sp, (3 hdc, 1 sc) in next ch sp. Repeat from the *) twice, join with a sl st in first sc and fasten off.

CPK Simple Sundress

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Hey, I’ve finally gotten my pattern touched up and ready to go! This dress is a piece of cake to make, and lends itself well to lots of customization.

Yarn, Hook, and Gauge
Worsted Weight Yarn
US Size J Hook (6 MM)

Gauge is unimportant. After completing the chest front, just check and make sure that it roughly covers the chest of the doll like in the picture.

Some of my testers mentioned that a J hook seemed a little too big for the yarn. If that’s true for you, feel free to jump down to an I or something as long as it doesn’t make the chest piece too small.

This pattern doesn’t take much yarn. Definitely way less than a 7oz skein of red heart super saver.


Chest Front

– Starting at the top of the chest, chain 14
1) Sc in the second ch from the hook and in each ch across (13sts)
2-6) Ch 3 (counts as first dc always) and turn. Dc in 2nd st and in each st across.

Do NOT fasten off.


Special Notes – From this point on, stitch count is pretty much unimportant. Don’t worry about your increases coming out even. They will not fit perfectly at the end of some rounds (you can almost count on it), just fill in with (a) regular dc(s) when that happens. The entire point of this part is just to increase a bunch so the dress comes out slightly wavy/ruffled.

1) Ch 30 and join with a slip stitch to the first dc of the row (the side of the chest bottom you aren’t already attached to)
2) Ch 3 and turn. Dc in each ch and dc around. Join with a slip stitch to the 3rd ch of the ch 3.
3) Ch 3 and turn. Dc in each dc around. Join.
4) Ch 3 and turn. Dc in the same st, dc in next st. (2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st) around. Join.
5) Same as round 4
6) Ch 3 and turn. Dc in each dc around. Join.
7) Ch 3 and turn. Dc in same st, dc in the next 2 sts. (2 dc in next st, dc in the next 2 sts) around, Join.
8) Ch 3 and turn. Dc in each dc around. Join and finish off.


– Join with a slip st to the sc in the top right corner of the chest.
1) Ch 3, dc in the next 3 sts (4 sts)
2-9) Ch 3, turn. Dc in each dc.

Finish off

Repeat this for the top left sc.


Fold the dress in half to find (and mark) the center point of the back. Sew the straps in place an equal distance from this center point (I usually go for about 3 sts on either side of the center, but trying the dress on the doll is the best way to tell). Then just secure ends and you’re all done!

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