Bellinda

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A third doll made entirely in one piece. I do like that once I get my ends woven in, I’m pretty much done. The braids on this doll like to go a little wacky. You may decide you like it better unbraided, or maybe stitch them down to the head a bit, since like Jee’s ears they like to curl up spectacularly. I think she might look really cool if you did her hair in multicolored yarn.

I’m sorry about the lousy webcam picture. Real camera needs batteries yet again…

I Used
Red Heart Super Saver in Buff, Black, a light pink, and a darker pink
G Hook

Instructions
Pattern is worked in the round without joining, so you’ll want to mark the beginning of the round.

Head
Rnd 1 – With light pink, CH 2, 6 SC in 2nd ch from hook
Rnd 2 – 2 SC in each sc (12 sc)
Rnd 3 – (SC in next st, 2 SC in next st) around (18)
Rnd 4 – (hair round) SC 4, (SLST in the front loop of the next sc, CH 20, slst along chain) 3 times, SC 6, (SLST in the front loop of the next sc, CH 20, slst along chain) 3 times, SC 2 (You will now have what looks a bit like a 6 legged spider. Note the areas where you slip stitched into the front loops. The remaining back loop will be called “free loop” in the next round)
Rnd 5 – SC 4, SC in each of the three free loops, SC 6, SC in each of the three free loops, SC 2
Rnd 6 – SC 2 and change to Buff in the 2nd sc. SC 16
Rnd 7 – SC in each st
Rnd 8 – DEC around (9)
Rnd 9 – SC in each st, changing to darker pink in the last sc
Stuff Head

Body
Rnd 10 – 2 SC in each st (18)
Rnd 11 – (begin arms) SC 7, CH 5, SC in 2nd chain and in each remaining chain (4 sc made), SC in next 9 sc, CH 5, SC in 2nd chain and in each remaining chain (4 sc made), SC in next 2 sc
Rnd 12 – SC 7, SC 4 along backside of arm chain, SC in the next 4 arm sc, SC 9, SC 4 along backside of arm chain, SC in the next 4 arm sc, SC 2 (34 sc)
Rnd 13 – SC in each st around
Rnd 14 – SC 7, skip 8 sts (the arm), SC in the next 9 sc, skip 8 sts (other arm), SC in the next 2 sts (18 sc)
Rnd 15 – SC in each st around
Rnd 16 – SC in the back loops of each st around, change to Black in the last st
Rnd 17 – SC in each st around
Rnd 18 – SC in each st around
Stuff body

Legs – 1
Rnd 19 – SC 4, skip 9 sts, SC in the next 5 sts (9 sc)
Rnd 20 – SC in each st
Rnd 21 – SC in each st
Rnd 22 – SC in next stitch, DEC 4 times (5)
FO. Stuff leg and use tail to stitch up opening

Legs – 2
Rnd 1 – Join Black to opening for other leg. SC 9 around.
Rnd 2 – 4 – Repeat from round 20 as for first leg.

Skirt
Rnd 1 – Join darker pink in the free loops from the last round of pink. SC in each loop around. Join with a slip st to the first sc (18 sc)
Rnd 2 – CH 1, (SC, CH 5) in each sc around, join with a slip st to first sc (18 chain loops)
FO

Finishing
Step 1 – Stuff arms and sew shut
Step 2 – Stitch up gap between legs
Step 3 – Weave in all ends
Step 4 – Braid the hair and tie off with pink yarn
Step 5 – Embroider face

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Jee

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Another doll done in one piece. His construction is pretty much identical to Tinko, though there’s the obvious differences. The ears are floppy, but mine tend to be at least slightly poseable, which is why they’re in the curled up position they are in the picture.

I Used
Red Heart Super Saver in Buff, Gold, and (probably Royal) Blue
H Hook

Instructions
Pattern is worked in the round without joining, so you’ll want to mark the beginning of the round.

Head
Rnd 1 – With buff, CH 2, 6 SC in 2nd ch from hook
Rnd 2 – 2 SC in each sc (12 sc)
Rnd 3 – (SC in next stitch, 2 SC in next stitch) around (18)
Rnd 4 – (ear round) SC 5, CH 12, SlSt along chain, SC 9, CH 12, SlSt along chain, SC 4
Rnd 5 – (nose round) Making sure to SKIP OVER the ears, SC 9, CH 3, SlSt along chain, SC 9
Rnd 6 – Making sure to SKIP OVER the nose, SC around (18 still)
Rnd 7 – SC
Rnd 8 – SC
Rnd 9 – Dec around (9)
Rnd 10 – SC

Body – Arms and Chest
Rnd 11 – Switch to gold, (2 SC in next st, 3 SC in next st) around ending with 2 sc in last stitch (22)
Rnd 12 – 2 SC in next st, SC 10, 2 SC in next st, SC rest of round (24)
Rnd 13 – (begin arms) SC 10, *CH 5, SC along chain (4 sc), SC again in the stitch the chain is attached to*, SC 12, repeat what is between the *’s, SC 2
Rnd 14 – SC around including around each arm (4 up chain, 4 down the sc) – (42)
Rnd 15 – SC
Rnd 16 – SC
Rnd 17 – SC
Rnd 18 – SC 9, draw up a loop in next stitch, skip 8, draw up a loop in next stitch, yo and draw through all loops (dec under the arm made), SC 11, Dec under the arm, SC 2 (24)
Rnd 19 – SC

Body – Pants
Rnd 20 – Switch to blue, SC around in BLO
Rnd 21 – SC
Rnd 22 – SC
Stuff body (and head if you haven’t yet)

Legs – 1
Rnd 23 – SC 6, skip 12, SC 6 (12)
Rnd 24 – SC
Rnd 25 – SC
Stuff leg
Rnd 26 – Dec around (6)
FO

Legs – 2
Join yarn to the stitches for the second leg
Rnd 1 – SC around (12)
Rnd 2 – SC
Rnd 3 – SC
Stuff leg
Rnd 4 – Dec around (6)
FO

Finishing
Step 1 – If needed, stuff legs firmer. If needed, stuff body firmer through gap between legs.
Step 2 – Stuff arms and sew closed
Step 3 – Embroider face
Step 4 – Deal with yarn ends

Tinko

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Tinko is a doll made entirely in one piece.  Yes, there’s a bit of sewing, but it’s nothing major.

Materials
Yarn and an appropriately sized hook.

I used:
– Red Heart Super Saver in Buff and Red (maybe cherry red, they’ve got a lot of reds)
– H hook

Instructions

Note that I first give the instructions plain, without any of the color work.  That way you can add your own without having to reinterpret things.  The instructions for the diaper/undies will be at the end.  Also, this is done in a spiral without joining, so you’ll probably want to mark the beginning of the round.

Edit as of 2-11-2011: Noticed a small missing instruction. I’ve marked it in blue.

Head

Rnd 1 – CH 2, 6 SC in 2nd chain from hook
Rnd 2 – 2 SC in each st (12 sc)
Rnd 3 – (1 SC in next st, 2 SC in next st) 6 times around (18 sc)
Rnd 4 – SC
Rnd 5 – SC
Rnd 6 – (Ears round) SC in the next 5 sts, CH 3, SlSt in the 3rd ch from hook, SC in next 9 sts, CH 3, SlSt in the 3rd ch  from hook, SC in next 4 sts
Rnd 7 – SC around, skipping over the chains (still 18 sc)
Rnd 8 – (SC in next st, DEC) around (12 sc)
Rnd 9 – SC

Body – Chest and Arms

Rnd 10 – (SC in next st, 2 SC in next stitch) twice, CH 7, SC in second ch from hook and in each ch (so 6 sc along chain), (SC in next st, 2 SC in next st) three times, CH 7, 6 SC along chain, SC in next st, 2 SC in next st
Rnd 11 – SC 6, SC 12 around arm (6 up chain, 6 back down the sc), SC 9, SC 12 around arm, SC 3 (42 sc)
Rnd 12 – SC

Body – Rest of tummy

Rnd 13 – SC 6, skip 12 (the arm), SC 9, skip 12 (other arm), SC 3 (18 sc)
Rnd 14 – SC
Rnd 15 – SC

Body – Butt

Rnd 16 – SC
Rnd 17 – SC
Rnd 18 – SC
Rnd 19 – SC
Rnd 20 – SC
If you haven’t yet, you will want to stuff the head and body now

Legs – Right (from looking head on)
Place a marker in the 4th sc from the hook
Place a marker in the 9th sc from previous marker

Setup – SC 3, note last sc as new end of round, skip stitches between markers (including the marked stitches). Start of next round will be in the sc directly after the second marker
Rnd 21 – SC (8 sc)
Rnd 22 – SC
Rnd 23 – SC
Rnd 24 – SC
Rnd 25 – SC
Stuff leg
Rnd 26 – (SC in next st, skip next stitch) around (4sc), slip st to even out end of round, FO and sew opening closed

Legs – Left
Hold doll head towards the floor so that the front of the doll is facing you. Attach yarn with a slip stitch to the sc directly before the marker that is facing you. The start of the round will be in the stitch directly after the marked sc on the side away from you.

Rnd 27 – SC around making sure to ignore the two marked stitches (8sc)
Rnd 28 – SC
Rnd 29 – SC
Rnd 30 – SC
Rnd 31 – SC
Stuff leg
Rnd 32 – (SC in next st, skip next stitch) around (4sc), slip st to even out end of round, FO and sew opening closed

Finishing

Step 1 – Remove markers. Poke some more stuffing into the body through the gap between the legs if needed and then stitch gap closed.
Step 2 – Gently stuff and then sew the seam on each arm.
Step 3 – Embroider face.
Step 4 – Take a length of your yarn and tie it tightly around the neck to define it a little better.
Step 5 – Deal with yarn ends.

Instructions for the undies shown in example
Note that these instructions REPLACE the rounds that they are labeled as. I found it easiest to strand the unused yarn through the stitches, but do what works best for you. I’ve color coded the instructions to make them slightly easier to follow.

R = Red
S = Skin tone

Rnd 16 – SC 2, Change to R, SC rest of round
Rnd 17SC
Rnd 18Sc 6 with R, sc 3 with S, sc 6 R, sc 3 with S
Rnd 19 – Sc 1 with S, sc 5 with R, sc 4 with S, sc 5 with R, sc 3 with S
Rnd 20 – Sc 3 with s, sc 1 with R, sc 8 with S, sc 1 with R, sc 5 with S

Note that the stitches I have you mark in the leg section are the only ones that are still red if you use the undies the way I have them written.

Simple Knit Ball

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Note that these are the original instructions from when I first wrote them.  (The written notes I have somewhere in one of my notebooks is even worse)  I have rewritten the instructions to (hopefully) be more clear.

Simple Knit Ball

Time Rating
One Hour

History & Notes
I made the pattern for this ball ages ago as the head for a doll. Never made it past there, but it actually makes a better ball. It’s knitted flat and sewed up the side. The suggested needles and yarn are what I designed it on. Anything will work though. The ball is all stockinette stitch.

Gauge
Doesn’t matter

Suggested Needle Size and Yarn
US Size 6
Worsted weight yarn.

Pattern
-Co 6
-K 1 row
-P and inc in every st (12 sts)
-Work 2 rows even
-K and inc in every st (24 sts)
-Work 9 rows even
-Dec in every st (12 sts)
-Work 2 rows even
-Dec in every st (6 sts)
-K 1 row

Break yarn and pull through remaining stitches. Pull tight and then sew up side of ball. Stuff to desired firmness. Run the sewing yarn through the cast on stitches, pull tight, and fasten off.

——

New Notes

Yeah, I certainly could have written that better if I’d actually known the names of the increases and decreases I used.  Not that it really matters, since my goal was to double or halve the stitches.  With that in mind, anything (written like this) is a note.  Usually about ways you may want to try something different.  For example, I currently don’t think long-tail cast on is the best cast on for the job, provisional may be better.

Yarn, Needles, & Gauge

Not particularly important.  Pick something that won’t let too much stuffing show through and you ought to be good.

Pattern

– Cast on 6 stitches.  (Note that I originally designed this with a long tail cast on, but anything ought to work)

– Knit a row.

– Pfb across row – 12 sts (You can alternatively use any increase you want as long as you double the amount of stitches)

– Starting with a knit row, work 2 rows in stst

– Kfb across row – 24 sts (Same as last increase row, just double the stitches)

– Starting with a purl row, work 9 rows in stst

– K2Tog across – 12 sts (Same as increases, you just want to halve the stitches here)

– Starting with a purl row, work 2 rows stst

– P2tog – 6 sts (Halve the stitches again)

– Knit 1 row

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I’m stuck with just my laptop’s webcam at the moment, so please excuse the slightly blurry pics.  These two samples were made with size 8 needles and Red Heart Super Saver yarn.  They’re really quite quick to make, and ridiculously easy.

Squares and Triangles Hat

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Affectionately nicknamed the “I heart grannies” hat.

https://i2.wp.com/img.photobucket.com/albums/v401/butterfly_girl_22/th_S6300561.jpg

This hat doesn’t have to be made with granny squares, but they’re one of the simpler squares out there. I’ve provided instructions for them, but feel free to substitute with any square and triangle pattern you wish. Pay specific attention to anything bold and underlined.

Finished Diameter: Approximately 20 inches

Now this isn’t so much a pattern, as a recipe. I give you the basic direction, and you fill in where needed. You could even knit the squares and triangles if you so desire.

First thing you need is a square pattern. Below is directions for a basic granny square, but feel free to substitute with any square. Instructions are written the best I can for beginners, so please feel free to skip this section if you already know how to make a granny square.

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Basic Granny Square
Ch 4 and join to first ch with a slst to make a ring.

-Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 3. (3 dc in ring, ch 3) 3 times, join to top of the beginning ch 3. (4 dc groups and 4 ch 3 spaces)

-Slst in each dc to and into next ch3 space. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same space, ch 3, 3 dc in same space, ch 1. *(3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 1) in next ch 3 space. Repeat from * in each remaining ch 3 space. Join to top of original ch 3. (8 dc groups, 4 ch 3 spaces, 4 ch 1 spaces)

-You should see a pattern emerging, so this part is written a little differently. Again, slst to and into the next ch3 space. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same space, ch 3, 3 dc in same space, ch 1.
Next is a chain 1 space. Into this space, put 3 dc and then ch 1.
Now we have a chain 3 space. In this space, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 1).
Continue working around like this, following the instructions for ch1 and ch3 spaces as you come the them. Then join to the top of the starting ch3.

-To keep making the square bigger, simply keep working like the previous round, putting (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1 space you come to, and putting (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 1) in each ch3 space you come to.

I apologize if this has only served to confuse you, as this is simply the way I see granny squares. Here’s a couple of links that might work better for you:
http://pumamouse.com/crochetbasicgrannys.html
http://www.jpfun.com/patterns/free/granny_squares/f101001basicgranny.shtml

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Next you need to know the size of your finished square. I would suggest sticking to 4 or 5 inch squares, but go ahead and use larger or smaller as you wish.

Divide 20 by the size of your chosen square. This is how many squares you need to make for the diameter. This is why I suggest 4 or 5 inch squares. But as long as it comes out even (or real close to even because most crochet stretches pretty good) you ought to be fine.

Now you need a triangle pattern. I used a basic granny triangle pattern, which is a just a granny square with one less side. If you want to use my instructions for a granny square, simply replace the first round of -Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 3. (3 dc in ring, ch 3) 3 times, join to top of the beginning ch 3. (4 dc groups and 4 ch 3 spaces) with this:

-Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 3. (3 dc in ring, ch 3) 2 times, join to top of the beginning ch 3. (3 dc groups and 3 ch 3 spaces)

This type of triangle tends to turn into a shallow cup but it’s ok.

Measure the length of one side of your triangle and then divide 20 by that amount. That is how many you need. You probably don’t want to go much smaller than 4 inch sides. Smaller than that and your hat will have too small of a crown. If you are using 4 or 5 inch squares, it’s best to use that same size for your triangles to make it easy.

Sew all the squares into a strip. If you want your hat body to be longer than just that strip, feel free to add more rows of squares to the bottom.

Lay the strip horizontally and sew the triangles to the top. If you used triangles the same size as your squares, it’s as simple as sewing one triangle to the top of each square. If they are different sizes, just start at one end and work across.

Sew the ends of the strip to each other to make a loop. Don’t sew the triangles just yet though. This is a good point to try on the hat and see if it fits.

Sew the seams between each triangle. This forms the crown of the hat. Don’t forget to sew up the hole that forms between the top points.

Weave in ends and enjoy!

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Here is an example showing the specs of my hat

Please excuse the paint diagrams, I didn’t take pictures.

I used red heart super saver and an H hook. Using the granny’s described above, I did four rounds and they turned out to be about 5 inches.

Which means I needed a grand total of 4 of each. Here’s them sewn into a strip with the triangles sewn on top.

Then it was sewn into a ring:

And then the crown was sewn up:

If the written instructions confuse you, I hope these badly drawn diagrams help.

Do note that this ought to work just as good with knitted squares and triangles as it would with crocheted ones.

CPK Cardigan Style Tank Top

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I made this for my sister ages ago.  I never thought to check gauge, but at least it’s a small shirt and not a human sized sweater, right?  Chances are it’ll fit some doll even if it’s a bit too small for a CPK.

MATERIALS
Worsted Weight Yarn
I Crochet Hook
3 Buttons

PATTERN
Unless otherwise stated, always end each row with a Ch 1, turn

Button Hole: ch1, skip a st and sc in following st

Shirt Bottom:
Ch 49
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in ea ch across.
Row 2 (button hole row): Sc 2, make a button hole, sc remaining sts
Row 3: Sc across row. When you reach the ch1 sp, sc into the sp, not the ch.
Rows 4-6: Sc across row
Row 7: Repeat button hole row
Row 8: Repeat row 3
Row 9: Sc across row
Row 10: Sc 9, slst 7 (1 arm hole curve made), sc 16, slst 7 (another arm hole curve made), sc 9

Right Front:
Row 11: Sc 2, make a button hole, sc 5 *Row now ends here* – 9 sts
Row 12: Sc 7, dec 1 – 8 sts
Row 13: Dec 1, Sc 6 – 7 sts
Row 14: Sc 5, dec 1 – 6 sts
Row 15: Dec 1, Sc 4 – 5 sts
Row 16: Sc 3, dec 1 – 4 sts
Row 17: Dec 1, Sc 2 – 3 sts
Rows 18-19: Sc across row
Fasten off

Left Front:
Attach yarn in last st on other side of top
Row 20: Sc 9 * row ends here* – 9 sts
Rows 21-29: Repeat rows 12-19
Fasten off

Back:
Attach yarn in first sc after one of the arm hole curves (doesn’t matter which)
Row 30: Sc 16 * row ends here* – 16 sts
Rows 31-38: Sc across row
Fasten off

FINISHING
Fold one side of front in until the edge of the tallest part of the front matches up with the edge of the back. Sew shoulder.
Repeat for other side of front.
Sew buttons in place and hide all ends.

Super Easy Super Awesome Scarf

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What do you do when you need a fast christmas gift?  Whip up a ridiculously quick scarf!  I’m not entirely sure why I picked this name way back when, but whatever.  The example was made for my sister several years ago.

Gauge
Doesn’t matter

Hook Size and Suggested Yarn
US Size Q Crochet Hook
2 or more strands of worsted weight yarn.

Pattern
-Ch at least 91 (make it as long as you want the scarf to be)
-Using your favorite stitch pattern, go until the scarf is as wide as you want it. (For sc, go for at least 12 rows)
-Fringe any way you want!

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