Two Headed Teddy Bear

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Hook and Yarn
I used Red Heart Super Saver in “Warm Brown” and an H (5mm) hook, but feel free to use any yarn and hook you wish.

Pattern
Heads

ch 2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– 2 sc in each st around (12)
– (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around (18)
– (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (24)
– Sc 4 rounds plain
– (sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog) around (18)
– (sc in next st, sc2tog) around (12)
– FO

Repeat for second head, but DO NOT finish off

Attach Heads:
– Sc 9 sts on the first head (the finished off one), skip 3 sts on the second head, sc 9 sts on the second head (end of round)
– Sc 1 round (18 sts)
– Stuff each head and sew up the gap between them

Body

– (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (24)
– (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (30)
– Work 10 rounds plain
– (sc2tog) 5 times total, sc in the next 18 sts, sc2tog (24)
(The decreases form the bear’s butt)

Legs

– Sc 2, ch 3, skip 12 sts, sc in next 10 sts
– Sc 15 around, including 3 sts in the chain
– Stuff the body portion
– Sc 3 rounds plain
– (sc in next st, sc2tog) around (10)
– Stuff Leg
– sc2tog around (5)
– FO

– Attach yarn to other leg opening
– Sc 15 around
– Sc 4 rounds plain
– (sc in next st, sc2tog) around (10)
– Stuff Leg
– sc2tog around (5)
– FO

Arms (make 2)

Ch2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– 2 sc in each st around (12)
– Work 5 rounds plain
– FO

– Stuff arms and sew to body

Ears (make 4)

Ch 2
– 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, turn
– 2 sc in each st (6)
– FO

– Sew ears to the heads

Snouts (make 2)

Ch 2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) twice (8)
– Sc 1 round plain
– FO

– Embroider nose/mouth on snouts then sew to face
– Embroider eyes onto faces

Meap

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Anyone who has watched Phineas & Ferb ought to know who Meap is.  He’s the adorable little alien that crash lands in their backyard on afternoon.  Of course, things are never what they seem.  Meap’s no helpless little thing – he’s actually an intergalactic security agent that can shoot a rainbow colored death ray from his mouth.

I crocheted this little version of Meap for an event on Ravelry, and now I am writing up my pattern so that you can as well.  Obviously the character belongs to the creators of the show, and I trust that if any of them actually notice this (and really, what the heck are those odds? Ha!) they’ll recognize it for what it is – a loving tribute.  Seriously, if you haven’t watched the show do it!!  I mean it, ’cause it’s freakin’ awesome.

I didn’t notice until after I had already completed him that cartoon Meap has a little tail, so it’s not included in this pattern.  To be honest, I don’t like making tails that much, even little ball tails like his, so I probably would have left it off anyway…

Head

Meap’s head is crocheted in two parts – a front and a back.  Because of his coloring, what with the pink back of the head and white front, this is easier.  Trust me.

Front
With white:
– ch 2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– inc around (12)
– [sc 1, inc] around (18)
– [sc 2, inc] around (24)
– [sc 3, inc] around (30)
– [sc 4, inc] around (36)
– [sc 5, inc] around (42)
– SC one round plain
– Sl st 3 and FO

Back
With pink:
– ch 2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– inc around (12)
– [sc 1, inc] around (18)
– [sc 2, inc] around (24)
– [sc 3, inc] around (30)
– [sc 4, inc] around (36)
– [sc 5, inc] around (42)
– SC 6 rounds plain
– Sl st 3 and FO

Body
The torso is crocheted in one piece, from the bottom up.

With white:
– ch 2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– inc around (12)
– [sc 1, inc] around (18)
– [sc 2, inc] around (24)
– SC 4 rounds plain
– [sc 4, dec] around (20)
– SC 1 round plain
– [sc 3, dec] around (16)
– SC 2 rounds plain
– Sl st 3 and FO

Ears (make two):
The ears are crocheted from the center of the bottom outwards, and then crocheted along the bottom to both add a little length and stabilize the bottom. They should look more or less like little half circles.

With pink:
– Ch 2
– 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1 turn
– Inc in each st, ch1 turn (6)
– [sc, inc] 3 times (9)
– ch 1, sc 6 along bottom edge of ear
– FO

Arms (make two):
With white:
– ch 2
– 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– [sc, inc] twice (6)
– sc 3 rounds plain
– slst 1 and FO

Legs (make two):
With white:
– ch 3
– 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in next ch, turn and sc2 in backside of the ch that already has 2 sc in it. (8 sc)
– SC 1 round plain
– SC 2, dec, dec, sc 2 (6)
– SC 1 round plain
– slst 1 and FO

Finishing
The two halves of the head should be sewn together, stuffing before you finish of course. Ears should be sewn to the top sides of the head, set back a bit into the pink half. Then stuff the body and sew the head and body together. Then stuff and sew on the arms and legs.

I cut the eyes from felt and used hot glue to attach. I can’t make any guarantees about this method as this is the first time I’ve attempted it. You may find sewing or embroidery is a better choice for your doll.

The mouth is embroidered on with black yarn. Cartoon Meap technically has an underbite, but that wasn’t practical to do in crochet, so instead I’ve embroidered it to resemble the effect. You can find pictures of Meap here at the P&F Wiki for reference.

Doll in a Kitty Costume

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See more pictures on my Ravelry project page (it’s public)

This doll is made almost in one piece. The only sewing that is needed is to attach the bottoms of her feet. If her feet had looked better simply sewn closed, she would have been made in one piece, and you are fully free to do that if you so desire. Everything else is crocheted right onto the doll.

This doll has floppy arms and legs, and can sit if you weight her bottom, unlike prior dolls I have done in one piece. Her hat has tiny kitty ears and her bottom has a short tail.

Note: I use the term “free loops” a heck of a lot in this pattern, so it’s vital that you know what I mean. Here is a page that sort of explains it, but basically the “free loop” is the half of the stitch left behind when you have been working in just the back loops or just the front loops. I have you attach the yarn into these loops to do things like make the hair or start the arms and legs.

Also Note: This pattern is the most complex of my dolls to date. She’s not hard to make, but if my instructions confuse you at all please feel free to leave a comment or send me a message on Ravelry.

Materials I Used
– Red Heart Super Saver in Buff and Yellow
– Caron One Pound in Orange
– H Hook
– Doll Eyes (I lost the package so no idea what size, sorry!)

Special Stitches
Ear: Chain 2, sc in 2nd chain from hook. Note that this does NOT count as a stitch on the next round.
Tail: Chain 6, slip stitch loosely into the back of the 2nd ch from hook and the remaining 4 chs. Note that this does NOT count as a stitch on the next round.
DEC: Insert hook under the front loop of the next stitch. Twist around and insert the hook under the front loop of the stitch after that as well. Yarn over and draw through both front loops. Yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. One decrease made. Note that if the instructions have you working in the BLO, do the same except use the back loops instead of the front loops.

Instructions:
Note: Pattern is worked in the round without joining, so be sure to mark the beginning of the round.

Hat

RND 1 – With orange, CH 2, 6 SC in 2nd ch from hook
RND 2 – 2 SC in each sc (12 sc)
RND 3 – (SC in next st, 2 SC in next st) around (18)
RND 4 – SC in next 2 sts, 2 SC in next st, SC in next st. Make EAR. SC in next st, 2 SC in next st. (SC in next 2 sts, 2 SC in next st) twice. SC in next st. Make EAR. SC in next st, 2 SC in next st, SC in next 2 sts, 2 SC in last st. (24 sc and 2 ears)
RND 5 – SC in each st around, remembering to SKIP the ears (24 sc)
RND 6 – SC in each st around
RND 7 – SC in the FLO of each st around, slip st twice, FO orange

Head and Hair Setup
-Turn hat inside out and hold it so that you will be inserting the hook going from the brim towards the top. Attach Yellow to the free loops left over from the last round of the hat and SC in each free loop around (24 sc)
– Draw the loop big and remove hook. Do NOT cut the yellow yarn.

Head
RND 1 – Attach Buff and SC in the BLO of the yellow hair ring. (24 sc)
RND 2 – Turn hat right side out now. Making sure the yellow loop/yarn is in front, and continuing around with the Buff, SC around
RND 3 – SC in each st around
RND 4 – (SC in next 2 sts, DEC) around (18 sts)
RND 5 – (SC in next st, DEC) around (12 sts)

Hair
– Remove hook from the Buff but do NOT cut the yarn. Insert the hook into the dangling Yellow loop.
– Fold back the edge of the hat. We will now be working in the free loops that are now exposed.
– SLST in the first free loop
– (CH 8, SLST in the next free loop) 9 times
– (CH 3, SLST in the next free loop) 7 times
– (CH 8, SLST in the next free loop) until you are out of free loops
– CH 8, SLST in the first slip stitch
– FO Yellow

Body
– If you are using plastic eyes, now is a good time to insert them. Note that the beginning of the round should be towards the back and the eyes should be relatively centered between the two ears.
– Now would also be a good time to stuff the head
– Insert the hook back into the dangling Buff loop
RND 1 – DEC around (6 sts)
RND 2 – SC in each st around
RND 3 – SC in next st, changing to Orange as you finish the stitch. SC in same st, 2 SC is each of the remaining sts (12 sts)
RND 4 – (SC in next st, 2 SC in next st) around (18 sts)
RND 5 – (SC in next 2 sts, 2 SC in next st) around (24 sts)
RND 6(arms setup round) (SC in the next 7 sts, SC in the BLO of the next 5 sts) twice
You may wish to stuff the neck some now
RND 7 – SC in each st around
RND 8 – SC in each st around
RND 9 – SC in each st around
RND 10 – SC in each st around
RND 11 – SC in each st around
RND 12 – SC in each st around
RND 13 – SC in each st around
(Note, if you lost count that was 7 rounds of plain sc)
RND 14 – SC in the next 5 sts, Make TAIL, SC in the remaining sts of round
RND 15 – SC in each st around, remembering to skip over the tail
RND 16(Leg setup round) (SC in next 2 sts, DEC) 3 times. Working in the BLO, (SC in next 2 sts, DEC) twice, SC in next 2 sts. Working normal again, DEC to end the round (18 sts)
Stuff body
RND 17 – (SC in next st, DEC) around (12 sts)
RND 18 – DEC around (6 sts)
FO Buff and cinch up bottom

Note that at this point you have a doll body with free loops where the arms and legs will be attached. Also note that while it appears there is only one section for the legs, each leg will be worked over half of that section.

Legs
Hold doll so that the head is pointed downwards. Attach Orange to the first leg free loop.
– SLST in the first 5 free loops. CH 1, turn.
RND 1 – SC in the front loops of each of the slip stitches. Turn and SC along the other side of the slip stitches. You will now be working around in a spiral once again. (10 sts)
RND 2 – SC in each st around
RND 3 – SC in each st around
RND 4 – SC in each st around
RND 5 – SC in each st around
RND 6(foot setup round) SC in the next 8 sts, CH 3, SC in 2nd chain from hook and in the next chain as well. SC in last two stitches of the round.
RND 7 – SC in next 8 sts. SC 2 in the edge of the chain from the previous round, SC in the two new sc from the previous round, SC in last two stitches of the round (14 sts)
RND 8 – SC in each st around
RND 9 – SLST 3, FO orange

Attach Orange to the first free loop directly after the first leg and make a second leg.

Arms
Hold the doll with the head downwards and one of the arm spots facing you.
– Attach Orange to the first free loop and SLST in each of the 5 free loops, CH 1, turn
RND 1 – SC in the FLO of the slip stitches, turn and SLST along the other side of the slip stitches. You will now be working in a spiral once again. (10 sts)
RND 2 – SC in each st around
RND 3 – SC in each st around
RND 4 – SC in each st around
RND 5 – SC in each st around
RND 6 – SC in each st around
RND 7 – SC in the FLO of each st around. SLST 1, FO Orange.
– Folding back the edge of the orange sleeve, attach Buff to the free loops.
RND 1 – SC in each free loop around (10 sts)
RND 2 – SC in each st around
Stuff arm
RND 3 – DEC around (5 sts)
FO, stuff arm more if needed, cinch up opening

Repeat for the second arm.

Food Pads (make two)
With Orange, CH 5
RND 1 – 2 SC in 2nd ch from hook, SC in next 2 chains, 2 SC in last chain. Turn. Now working along the backside of the chain, repeat what you did for the first half of the round. (12 sc)
SLST twice, FO

Finishing
– Stuff the legs and sew the foot pads over the openings.
– Embroider face if you haven’t already
– Weave in all ends if you haven’t already

Bellinda

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A third doll made entirely in one piece. I do like that once I get my ends woven in, I’m pretty much done. The braids on this doll like to go a little wacky. You may decide you like it better unbraided, or maybe stitch them down to the head a bit, since like Jee’s ears they like to curl up spectacularly. I think she might look really cool if you did her hair in multicolored yarn.

I’m sorry about the lousy webcam picture. Real camera needs batteries yet again…

I Used
Red Heart Super Saver in Buff, Black, a light pink, and a darker pink
G Hook

Instructions
Pattern is worked in the round without joining, so you’ll want to mark the beginning of the round.

Head
Rnd 1 – With light pink, CH 2, 6 SC in 2nd ch from hook
Rnd 2 – 2 SC in each sc (12 sc)
Rnd 3 – (SC in next st, 2 SC in next st) around (18)
Rnd 4 – (hair round) SC 4, (SLST in the front loop of the next sc, CH 20, slst along chain) 3 times, SC 6, (SLST in the front loop of the next sc, CH 20, slst along chain) 3 times, SC 2 (You will now have what looks a bit like a 6 legged spider. Note the areas where you slip stitched into the front loops. The remaining back loop will be called “free loop” in the next round)
Rnd 5 – SC 4, SC in each of the three free loops, SC 6, SC in each of the three free loops, SC 2
Rnd 6 – SC 2 and change to Buff in the 2nd sc. SC 16
Rnd 7 – SC in each st
Rnd 8 – DEC around (9)
Rnd 9 – SC in each st, changing to darker pink in the last sc
Stuff Head

Body
Rnd 10 – 2 SC in each st (18)
Rnd 11 – (begin arms) SC 7, CH 5, SC in 2nd chain and in each remaining chain (4 sc made), SC in next 9 sc, CH 5, SC in 2nd chain and in each remaining chain (4 sc made), SC in next 2 sc
Rnd 12 – SC 7, SC 4 along backside of arm chain, SC in the next 4 arm sc, SC 9, SC 4 along backside of arm chain, SC in the next 4 arm sc, SC 2 (34 sc)
Rnd 13 – SC in each st around
Rnd 14 – SC 7, skip 8 sts (the arm), SC in the next 9 sc, skip 8 sts (other arm), SC in the next 2 sts (18 sc)
Rnd 15 – SC in each st around
Rnd 16 – SC in the back loops of each st around, change to Black in the last st
Rnd 17 – SC in each st around
Rnd 18 – SC in each st around
Stuff body

Legs – 1
Rnd 19 – SC 4, skip 9 sts, SC in the next 5 sts (9 sc)
Rnd 20 – SC in each st
Rnd 21 – SC in each st
Rnd 22 – SC in next stitch, DEC 4 times (5)
FO. Stuff leg and use tail to stitch up opening

Legs – 2
Rnd 1 – Join Black to opening for other leg. SC 9 around.
Rnd 2 – 4 – Repeat from round 20 as for first leg.

Skirt
Rnd 1 – Join darker pink in the free loops from the last round of pink. SC in each loop around. Join with a slip st to the first sc (18 sc)
Rnd 2 – CH 1, (SC, CH 5) in each sc around, join with a slip st to first sc (18 chain loops)
FO

Finishing
Step 1 – Stuff arms and sew shut
Step 2 – Stitch up gap between legs
Step 3 – Weave in all ends
Step 4 – Braid the hair and tie off with pink yarn
Step 5 – Embroider face

Jee

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Another doll done in one piece. His construction is pretty much identical to Tinko, though there’s the obvious differences. The ears are floppy, but mine tend to be at least slightly poseable, which is why they’re in the curled up position they are in the picture.

I Used
Red Heart Super Saver in Buff, Gold, and (probably Royal) Blue
H Hook

Instructions
Pattern is worked in the round without joining, so you’ll want to mark the beginning of the round.

Head
Rnd 1 – With buff, CH 2, 6 SC in 2nd ch from hook
Rnd 2 – 2 SC in each sc (12 sc)
Rnd 3 – (SC in next stitch, 2 SC in next stitch) around (18)
Rnd 4 – (ear round) SC 5, CH 12, SlSt along chain, SC 9, CH 12, SlSt along chain, SC 4
Rnd 5 – (nose round) Making sure to SKIP OVER the ears, SC 9, CH 3, SlSt along chain, SC 9
Rnd 6 – Making sure to SKIP OVER the nose, SC around (18 still)
Rnd 7 – SC
Rnd 8 – SC
Rnd 9 – Dec around (9)
Rnd 10 – SC

Body – Arms and Chest
Rnd 11 – Switch to gold, (2 SC in next st, 3 SC in next st) around ending with 2 sc in last stitch (22)
Rnd 12 – 2 SC in next st, SC 10, 2 SC in next st, SC rest of round (24)
Rnd 13 – (begin arms) SC 10, *CH 5, SC along chain (4 sc), SC again in the stitch the chain is attached to*, SC 12, repeat what is between the *’s, SC 2
Rnd 14 – SC around including around each arm (4 up chain, 4 down the sc) – (42)
Rnd 15 – SC
Rnd 16 – SC
Rnd 17 – SC
Rnd 18 – SC 9, draw up a loop in next stitch, skip 8, draw up a loop in next stitch, yo and draw through all loops (dec under the arm made), SC 11, Dec under the arm, SC 2 (24)
Rnd 19 – SC

Body – Pants
Rnd 20 – Switch to blue, SC around in BLO
Rnd 21 – SC
Rnd 22 – SC
Stuff body (and head if you haven’t yet)

Legs – 1
Rnd 23 – SC 6, skip 12, SC 6 (12)
Rnd 24 – SC
Rnd 25 – SC
Stuff leg
Rnd 26 – Dec around (6)
FO

Legs – 2
Join yarn to the stitches for the second leg
Rnd 1 – SC around (12)
Rnd 2 – SC
Rnd 3 – SC
Stuff leg
Rnd 4 – Dec around (6)
FO

Finishing
Step 1 – If needed, stuff legs firmer. If needed, stuff body firmer through gap between legs.
Step 2 – Stuff arms and sew closed
Step 3 – Embroider face
Step 4 – Deal with yarn ends

Tinko

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Tinko is a doll made entirely in one piece.  Yes, there’s a bit of sewing, but it’s nothing major.

Materials
Yarn and an appropriately sized hook.

I used:
– Red Heart Super Saver in Buff and Red (maybe cherry red, they’ve got a lot of reds)
– H hook

Instructions

Note that I first give the instructions plain, without any of the color work.  That way you can add your own without having to reinterpret things.  The instructions for the diaper/undies will be at the end.  Also, this is done in a spiral without joining, so you’ll probably want to mark the beginning of the round.

Edit as of 2-11-2011: Noticed a small missing instruction. I’ve marked it in blue.

Head

Rnd 1 – CH 2, 6 SC in 2nd chain from hook
Rnd 2 – 2 SC in each st (12 sc)
Rnd 3 – (1 SC in next st, 2 SC in next st) 6 times around (18 sc)
Rnd 4 – SC
Rnd 5 – SC
Rnd 6 – (Ears round) SC in the next 5 sts, CH 3, SlSt in the 3rd ch from hook, SC in next 9 sts, CH 3, SlSt in the 3rd ch  from hook, SC in next 4 sts
Rnd 7 – SC around, skipping over the chains (still 18 sc)
Rnd 8 – (SC in next st, DEC) around (12 sc)
Rnd 9 – SC

Body – Chest and Arms

Rnd 10 – (SC in next st, 2 SC in next stitch) twice, CH 7, SC in second ch from hook and in each ch (so 6 sc along chain), (SC in next st, 2 SC in next st) three times, CH 7, 6 SC along chain, SC in next st, 2 SC in next st
Rnd 11 – SC 6, SC 12 around arm (6 up chain, 6 back down the sc), SC 9, SC 12 around arm, SC 3 (42 sc)
Rnd 12 – SC

Body – Rest of tummy

Rnd 13 – SC 6, skip 12 (the arm), SC 9, skip 12 (other arm), SC 3 (18 sc)
Rnd 14 – SC
Rnd 15 – SC

Body – Butt

Rnd 16 – SC
Rnd 17 – SC
Rnd 18 – SC
Rnd 19 – SC
Rnd 20 – SC
If you haven’t yet, you will want to stuff the head and body now

Legs – Right (from looking head on)
Place a marker in the 4th sc from the hook
Place a marker in the 9th sc from previous marker

Setup – SC 3, note last sc as new end of round, skip stitches between markers (including the marked stitches). Start of next round will be in the sc directly after the second marker
Rnd 21 – SC (8 sc)
Rnd 22 – SC
Rnd 23 – SC
Rnd 24 – SC
Rnd 25 – SC
Stuff leg
Rnd 26 – (SC in next st, skip next stitch) around (4sc), slip st to even out end of round, FO and sew opening closed

Legs – Left
Hold doll head towards the floor so that the front of the doll is facing you. Attach yarn with a slip stitch to the sc directly before the marker that is facing you. The start of the round will be in the stitch directly after the marked sc on the side away from you.

Rnd 27 – SC around making sure to ignore the two marked stitches (8sc)
Rnd 28 – SC
Rnd 29 – SC
Rnd 30 – SC
Rnd 31 – SC
Stuff leg
Rnd 32 – (SC in next st, skip next stitch) around (4sc), slip st to even out end of round, FO and sew opening closed

Finishing

Step 1 – Remove markers. Poke some more stuffing into the body through the gap between the legs if needed and then stitch gap closed.
Step 2 – Gently stuff and then sew the seam on each arm.
Step 3 – Embroider face.
Step 4 – Take a length of your yarn and tie it tightly around the neck to define it a little better.
Step 5 – Deal with yarn ends.

Instructions for the undies shown in example
Note that these instructions REPLACE the rounds that they are labeled as. I found it easiest to strand the unused yarn through the stitches, but do what works best for you. I’ve color coded the instructions to make them slightly easier to follow.

R = Red
S = Skin tone

Rnd 16 – SC 2, Change to R, SC rest of round
Rnd 17SC
Rnd 18Sc 6 with R, sc 3 with S, sc 6 R, sc 3 with S
Rnd 19 – Sc 1 with S, sc 5 with R, sc 4 with S, sc 5 with R, sc 3 with S
Rnd 20 – Sc 3 with s, sc 1 with R, sc 8 with S, sc 1 with R, sc 5 with S

Note that the stitches I have you mark in the leg section are the only ones that are still red if you use the undies the way I have them written.

Simple Knit Ball

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Note that these are the original instructions from when I first wrote them.  (The written notes I have somewhere in one of my notebooks is even worse)  I have rewritten the instructions to (hopefully) be more clear.

Simple Knit Ball

Time Rating
One Hour

History & Notes
I made the pattern for this ball ages ago as the head for a doll. Never made it past there, but it actually makes a better ball. It’s knitted flat and sewed up the side. The suggested needles and yarn are what I designed it on. Anything will work though. The ball is all stockinette stitch.

Gauge
Doesn’t matter

Suggested Needle Size and Yarn
US Size 6
Worsted weight yarn.

Pattern
-Co 6
-K 1 row
-P and inc in every st (12 sts)
-Work 2 rows even
-K and inc in every st (24 sts)
-Work 9 rows even
-Dec in every st (12 sts)
-Work 2 rows even
-Dec in every st (6 sts)
-K 1 row

Break yarn and pull through remaining stitches. Pull tight and then sew up side of ball. Stuff to desired firmness. Run the sewing yarn through the cast on stitches, pull tight, and fasten off.

——

New Notes

Yeah, I certainly could have written that better if I’d actually known the names of the increases and decreases I used.  Not that it really matters, since my goal was to double or halve the stitches.  With that in mind, anything (written like this) is a note.  Usually about ways you may want to try something different.  For example, I currently don’t think long-tail cast on is the best cast on for the job, provisional may be better.

Yarn, Needles, & Gauge

Not particularly important.  Pick something that won’t let too much stuffing show through and you ought to be good.

Pattern

– Cast on 6 stitches.  (Note that I originally designed this with a long tail cast on, but anything ought to work)

– Knit a row.

– Pfb across row – 12 sts (You can alternatively use any increase you want as long as you double the amount of stitches)

– Starting with a knit row, work 2 rows in stst

– Kfb across row – 24 sts (Same as last increase row, just double the stitches)

– Starting with a purl row, work 9 rows in stst

– K2Tog across – 12 sts (Same as increases, you just want to halve the stitches here)

– Starting with a purl row, work 2 rows stst

– P2tog – 6 sts (Halve the stitches again)

– Knit 1 row

———-

I’m stuck with just my laptop’s webcam at the moment, so please excuse the slightly blurry pics.  These two samples were made with size 8 needles and Red Heart Super Saver yarn.  They’re really quite quick to make, and ridiculously easy.