Megamind’s Bat Slippers

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Megamind has the coolest bat slippers ever.  So of course I had to recreate them!

Materials
– Red Heart Super Saver in Black and Red
– H Hook

Gauge
– The first four rounds of the main slipper should be about 3.25 inches across

Notes
– There is only one size for this pattern: adult woman’s about an 8 or 9 shoe size. However, the basic slipper is really easy to adapt.
– I prefer the “wrongside” of hdc, the side away from you as you work it in the round, as the outside of the slipper. The only time this actually matters is when doing the heel and I have notes for this part.

Basic Slipper Pattern (make two)
– With black, chain 4 and join into a ring
Round 1: Ch 1 (does NOT count as a stitch throughout), 10 hdc in ring, join to top of 1st hdc (10)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each hdc around, join (20)
Round 3: Ch 1, (hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st) around, join (30)
Round 4: Ch 1, (hdc next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st) around, join (40)

– Work 16 rounds of hdc, joining at the end of each round, or until you have reached where you want to put the heel
– Chain 20, Skip 20 and slst in the next (21st) stitch. This becomes the new start of round.
– Ch 1, hdc in each hdc and ch around, join (40) Note: Be careful of the slst marking the old start of round. To avoid a gap, you may wish to hdc it together with the first chain
– Ch 1, hdc around, join
– Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each hdc around, join to top of chain 3
– Ch 1, fpsc around chain 3 at start of previous round, ch 1 (counts as starting fpdc), (bpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc) around, ending with a bpdc. Join to top of “starting fpdc” and FO

Note: Regardless of which side you prefer out, make sure the “front” side of the hdc is facing outward. If you prefer the backside to be facing out you will probably need to turn the slipper inside out.

– Join black to the opening for the heel.
– Ch 1, hdc 40 sts around opening, join (40)
– Ch 1, (hdc in next 2 sts, hdc2tog) around, join (30)
– Ch 1, hdc in ea st around, join
– Ch 1, (hdc in next st, hdc2tog) around, join (20)
– Ch 1, hdc2tog around, join (10)
– FO and sew the gap closed in a line across the heel

Bat Wings (make 4)
Note that you are to turn at the end of each row
– With black, chain 6
– Working along the backside of the chain, sc 5 (5)
– Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog (5)
– Ch 3, 2 sc along chain, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st (8)
– Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, ignore rest of row (5)
– Ch 3, 2 sc along chain, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts (6)
– FO

Sew to sides of slippers

Eyes (make 4)
– With red, chain 9
– Working along the backside of the chain: slst 2, sc, hdc, dc 2, hdc, sc
– FO and tie end tail to start tail to make edge a little pointier

Sew to front of slippers

School Bus Bank

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Materials:

  • Plastic Canvas (for internal frame)
  • Worsted Weight Yarn in yellow and grey (I used Red Heart Super Saver)
  • Worsted Weight yarn scraps for embroidery
  • H hook or hook needed for gauge
  • Small amount of fiber fill
  • Buttons

Building the Frame

The frame is built from plastic canvas.  You will need to cut out five pieces to the following dimensions:

  • Front & Back (so cut out two): 2″ x 1.5″
  • Sides (cut out two): 1.5″ x 4″
  • Bottom: 2″ x 4

Now we stitch it together into the shape of a box.  I used some yarn and simply whip stitched it together through the edge rows.  It doesn’t have to be pretty as it will be hidden.

 

The Actual Crocheting

Unless otherwise noted, at end of rows chain 1 and turn.

GAUGE: Finished bottom panel should be the same size as the bottom of the frame.  Actually, all panels should match their frame counterparts, just the bottom one is the simplest and the largest, so if it fits the others should as well.

Bottom:

– With yellow, chain 8
– Working into the back bump of the chain, sc along chain (7 sc)
– Sc 15 rows
– FO

Sides (make 2)

– With yellow, chain 15
– RS: Working into the back bump of the chain, sc along chain (14 sc)
– Sc 1 row
– Slip stitch along row in the front loops only
– FO yellow
– With the right side facing, join grey to the first free loop on the last row of sc
– Sc along the free loops to end of row (14 sc)
– Sc 3 rows
– Fo

Front

– With yellow, chain 8
– Working into the back bump of the chain, sc along chain (7 sc)
– Sc 2 rows
– FO yellow and join grey
– Sc 2 rows
– Fo grey and join yellow
– Sc 1 row
– FO

Top

– With yellow, chain 8
– Working into the back bump of the chain, sc along chain (7 sc)
– Sc 3 rows
– Split: Sc 2, ch 1 & turn (2 sc)
– Sc 6 more rows
– FO yellow
– Skip 3 stitches from the split and join yellow.
– Sc 7 rows
– Sc 2, chain 3, sc 2 on other half to close central hole
– Sc 4 rows (7 sc)
– FO

Back

– With yellow, chain 8
– RS: Working into the back bump of the chain, sc along chain (7 sc)
– Sc 2 rows
– FO yellow and join grey
– Sc 1, sc 1 in flo, sc 3, sc 1 flo, sc 1
– RS: Sc 1 row
– FO grey and join yellow
– Sc 1, sc 1 in flo, sc 3, sc 1 flo, sc 1
– FO
– * Holding piece with right side face, take note of the four free loops, two at the bottom of the window and two and the top. Join yellow to on of the bottom free loops.
– Chain 2
– Slip stitch in the free loop directly above
– FO
– Repeat from * for the other pair

Assembly
Weave in ends on all pieces. Embroider warning lights onto front, and do any other embroidery you wish. Stitch together sides, front, back, and bottom into an open topped box. Slide frame inside, then stitch the top onto the box.

Outer Flap

– With one of the sides facing, join yellow to the first slip stitch.
– Chain 2 (counts as a dc), dc in next sc, (ch 2, skip 2 slst, dc in next slst) 4 times, dc once more in last slst (15 sts)
– Sc 2 rows
– Sc in flo
– sc 3 rows
– Slst 6 loosely, chain 3, skip 3, slst 6 loosely
– Sc 4 rows
– Sc blo
– Sc 1 row, chain 3 and turn
– Dc into 2nd sc (chain counts as first dc), (ch 2, skip 2, dc in next st) 4 times, dc in last st
– Sc 2 rows
– Button holes: Slst 2, ch 3, slst 5, ch 3, slst 6, ch 3, slst 2
– Fo

Weave in ends. Fold flap over to find the spots to sew on buttons, then sew on buttons.

Front Thingy

Note: “Inc” means to put 2 sc in next st, I’m lazy.

– With yellow, chain 6
– Sc 5 along chain, turn and sc 5 along other side of chain, join (10 sc)
– Ch 1, inc in first st, sc 3, inc in next two stitches, sc 3, inc, join (14 sc)
– Ch 1, inc, sc 5, inc in next two stitches, sc 5, inc, join (18 sc)
– Ch 1, sc in ea st around, join
– Ch 1, sc in ea st around, join
– FO

Embroider on headlights and grill. Sew to front of bus, stuffing lightly.

If desired, sew on some big black buttons to create wheels.

Voila! Bus!

Two Headed Teddy Bear

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Hook and Yarn
I used Red Heart Super Saver in “Warm Brown” and an H (5mm) hook, but feel free to use any yarn and hook you wish.

Pattern
Heads

ch 2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– 2 sc in each st around (12)
– (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around (18)
– (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (24)
– Sc 4 rounds plain
– (sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog) around (18)
– (sc in next st, sc2tog) around (12)
– FO

Repeat for second head, but DO NOT finish off

Attach Heads:
– Sc 9 sts on the first head (the finished off one), skip 3 sts on the second head, sc 9 sts on the second head (end of round)
– Sc 1 round (18 sts)
– Stuff each head and sew up the gap between them

Body

– (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (24)
– (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (30)
– Work 10 rounds plain
– (sc2tog) 5 times total, sc in the next 18 sts, sc2tog (24)
(The decreases form the bear’s butt)

Legs

– Sc 2, ch 3, skip 12 sts, sc in next 10 sts
– Sc 15 around, including 3 sts in the chain
– Stuff the body portion
– Sc 3 rounds plain
– (sc in next st, sc2tog) around (10)
– Stuff Leg
– sc2tog around (5)
– FO

– Attach yarn to other leg opening
– Sc 15 around
– Sc 4 rounds plain
– (sc in next st, sc2tog) around (10)
– Stuff Leg
– sc2tog around (5)
– FO

Arms (make 2)

Ch2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– 2 sc in each st around (12)
– Work 5 rounds plain
– FO

– Stuff arms and sew to body

Ears (make 4)

Ch 2
– 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, turn
– 2 sc in each st (6)
– FO

– Sew ears to the heads

Snouts (make 2)

Ch 2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) twice (8)
– Sc 1 round plain
– FO

– Embroider nose/mouth on snouts then sew to face
– Embroider eyes onto faces

Meap

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Anyone who has watched Phineas & Ferb ought to know who Meap is.  He’s the adorable little alien that crash lands in their backyard on afternoon.  Of course, things are never what they seem.  Meap’s no helpless little thing – he’s actually an intergalactic security agent that can shoot a rainbow colored death ray from his mouth.

I crocheted this little version of Meap for an event on Ravelry, and now I am writing up my pattern so that you can as well.  Obviously the character belongs to the creators of the show, and I trust that if any of them actually notice this (and really, what the heck are those odds? Ha!) they’ll recognize it for what it is – a loving tribute.  Seriously, if you haven’t watched the show do it!!  I mean it, ’cause it’s freakin’ awesome.

I didn’t notice until after I had already completed him that cartoon Meap has a little tail, so it’s not included in this pattern.  To be honest, I don’t like making tails that much, even little ball tails like his, so I probably would have left it off anyway…

Head

Meap’s head is crocheted in two parts – a front and a back.  Because of his coloring, what with the pink back of the head and white front, this is easier.  Trust me.

Front
With white:
– ch 2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– inc around (12)
– [sc 1, inc] around (18)
– [sc 2, inc] around (24)
– [sc 3, inc] around (30)
– [sc 4, inc] around (36)
– [sc 5, inc] around (42)
– SC one round plain
– Sl st 3 and FO

Back
With pink:
– ch 2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– inc around (12)
– [sc 1, inc] around (18)
– [sc 2, inc] around (24)
– [sc 3, inc] around (30)
– [sc 4, inc] around (36)
– [sc 5, inc] around (42)
– SC 6 rounds plain
– Sl st 3 and FO

Body
The torso is crocheted in one piece, from the bottom up.

With white:
– ch 2
– 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– inc around (12)
– [sc 1, inc] around (18)
– [sc 2, inc] around (24)
– SC 4 rounds plain
– [sc 4, dec] around (20)
– SC 1 round plain
– [sc 3, dec] around (16)
– SC 2 rounds plain
– Sl st 3 and FO

Ears (make two):
The ears are crocheted from the center of the bottom outwards, and then crocheted along the bottom to both add a little length and stabilize the bottom. They should look more or less like little half circles.

With pink:
– Ch 2
– 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1 turn
– Inc in each st, ch1 turn (6)
– [sc, inc] 3 times (9)
– ch 1, sc 6 along bottom edge of ear
– FO

Arms (make two):
With white:
– ch 2
– 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook
– [sc, inc] twice (6)
– sc 3 rounds plain
– slst 1 and FO

Legs (make two):
With white:
– ch 3
– 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in next ch, turn and sc2 in backside of the ch that already has 2 sc in it. (8 sc)
– SC 1 round plain
– SC 2, dec, dec, sc 2 (6)
– SC 1 round plain
– slst 1 and FO

Finishing
The two halves of the head should be sewn together, stuffing before you finish of course. Ears should be sewn to the top sides of the head, set back a bit into the pink half. Then stuff the body and sew the head and body together. Then stuff and sew on the arms and legs.

I cut the eyes from felt and used hot glue to attach. I can’t make any guarantees about this method as this is the first time I’ve attempted it. You may find sewing or embroidery is a better choice for your doll.

The mouth is embroidered on with black yarn. Cartoon Meap technically has an underbite, but that wasn’t practical to do in crochet, so instead I’ve embroidered it to resemble the effect. You can find pictures of Meap here at the P&F Wiki for reference.

Simple Yarn Snowflake

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I came up with this snowflake years ago, and just never got around to sharing it properly. This is a really simple snowflake, done in any yarn you want. If you do it at a tight enough gauge you probably won’t even need to block it unless you just really want to, and the same goes for stiffening it.

Yarn and hook I used
Red Heart Super Saver
F hook

Pattern
– Chain 4 and join into a ring
– ch 1, (sc in ring, ch 7, slst in 4th ch from hook, [ch 3, slst in same ch as before] twice, slst 3) 6 times, slst in 1st sc
– FO

Finishing
I personally like to leave the starting and ending tails long, and just tie them together to make a loop to hang the flake with. However, if you like, you can weave in the ends, block/stiffen if you so desire, and add your own hanger.

Bellinda

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A third doll made entirely in one piece. I do like that once I get my ends woven in, I’m pretty much done. The braids on this doll like to go a little wacky. You may decide you like it better unbraided, or maybe stitch them down to the head a bit, since like Jee’s ears they like to curl up spectacularly. I think she might look really cool if you did her hair in multicolored yarn.

I’m sorry about the lousy webcam picture. Real camera needs batteries yet again…

I Used
Red Heart Super Saver in Buff, Black, a light pink, and a darker pink
G Hook

Instructions
Pattern is worked in the round without joining, so you’ll want to mark the beginning of the round.

Head
Rnd 1 – With light pink, CH 2, 6 SC in 2nd ch from hook
Rnd 2 – 2 SC in each sc (12 sc)
Rnd 3 – (SC in next st, 2 SC in next st) around (18)
Rnd 4 – (hair round) SC 4, (SLST in the front loop of the next sc, CH 20, slst along chain) 3 times, SC 6, (SLST in the front loop of the next sc, CH 20, slst along chain) 3 times, SC 2 (You will now have what looks a bit like a 6 legged spider. Note the areas where you slip stitched into the front loops. The remaining back loop will be called “free loop” in the next round)
Rnd 5 – SC 4, SC in each of the three free loops, SC 6, SC in each of the three free loops, SC 2
Rnd 6 – SC 2 and change to Buff in the 2nd sc. SC 16
Rnd 7 – SC in each st
Rnd 8 – DEC around (9)
Rnd 9 – SC in each st, changing to darker pink in the last sc
Stuff Head

Body
Rnd 10 – 2 SC in each st (18)
Rnd 11 – (begin arms) SC 7, CH 5, SC in 2nd chain and in each remaining chain (4 sc made), SC in next 9 sc, CH 5, SC in 2nd chain and in each remaining chain (4 sc made), SC in next 2 sc
Rnd 12 – SC 7, SC 4 along backside of arm chain, SC in the next 4 arm sc, SC 9, SC 4 along backside of arm chain, SC in the next 4 arm sc, SC 2 (34 sc)
Rnd 13 – SC in each st around
Rnd 14 – SC 7, skip 8 sts (the arm), SC in the next 9 sc, skip 8 sts (other arm), SC in the next 2 sts (18 sc)
Rnd 15 – SC in each st around
Rnd 16 – SC in the back loops of each st around, change to Black in the last st
Rnd 17 – SC in each st around
Rnd 18 – SC in each st around
Stuff body

Legs – 1
Rnd 19 – SC 4, skip 9 sts, SC in the next 5 sts (9 sc)
Rnd 20 – SC in each st
Rnd 21 – SC in each st
Rnd 22 – SC in next stitch, DEC 4 times (5)
FO. Stuff leg and use tail to stitch up opening

Legs – 2
Rnd 1 – Join Black to opening for other leg. SC 9 around.
Rnd 2 – 4 – Repeat from round 20 as for first leg.

Skirt
Rnd 1 – Join darker pink in the free loops from the last round of pink. SC in each loop around. Join with a slip st to the first sc (18 sc)
Rnd 2 – CH 1, (SC, CH 5) in each sc around, join with a slip st to first sc (18 chain loops)
FO

Finishing
Step 1 – Stuff arms and sew shut
Step 2 – Stitch up gap between legs
Step 3 – Weave in all ends
Step 4 – Braid the hair and tie off with pink yarn
Step 5 – Embroider face

Jee

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Another doll done in one piece. His construction is pretty much identical to Tinko, though there’s the obvious differences. The ears are floppy, but mine tend to be at least slightly poseable, which is why they’re in the curled up position they are in the picture.

I Used
Red Heart Super Saver in Buff, Gold, and (probably Royal) Blue
H Hook

Instructions
Pattern is worked in the round without joining, so you’ll want to mark the beginning of the round.

Head
Rnd 1 – With buff, CH 2, 6 SC in 2nd ch from hook
Rnd 2 – 2 SC in each sc (12 sc)
Rnd 3 – (SC in next stitch, 2 SC in next stitch) around (18)
Rnd 4 – (ear round) SC 5, CH 12, SlSt along chain, SC 9, CH 12, SlSt along chain, SC 4
Rnd 5 – (nose round) Making sure to SKIP OVER the ears, SC 9, CH 3, SlSt along chain, SC 9
Rnd 6 – Making sure to SKIP OVER the nose, SC around (18 still)
Rnd 7 – SC
Rnd 8 – SC
Rnd 9 – Dec around (9)
Rnd 10 – SC

Body – Arms and Chest
Rnd 11 – Switch to gold, (2 SC in next st, 3 SC in next st) around ending with 2 sc in last stitch (22)
Rnd 12 – 2 SC in next st, SC 10, 2 SC in next st, SC rest of round (24)
Rnd 13 – (begin arms) SC 10, *CH 5, SC along chain (4 sc), SC again in the stitch the chain is attached to*, SC 12, repeat what is between the *’s, SC 2
Rnd 14 – SC around including around each arm (4 up chain, 4 down the sc) – (42)
Rnd 15 – SC
Rnd 16 – SC
Rnd 17 – SC
Rnd 18 – SC 9, draw up a loop in next stitch, skip 8, draw up a loop in next stitch, yo and draw through all loops (dec under the arm made), SC 11, Dec under the arm, SC 2 (24)
Rnd 19 – SC

Body – Pants
Rnd 20 – Switch to blue, SC around in BLO
Rnd 21 – SC
Rnd 22 – SC
Stuff body (and head if you haven’t yet)

Legs – 1
Rnd 23 – SC 6, skip 12, SC 6 (12)
Rnd 24 – SC
Rnd 25 – SC
Stuff leg
Rnd 26 – Dec around (6)
FO

Legs – 2
Join yarn to the stitches for the second leg
Rnd 1 – SC around (12)
Rnd 2 – SC
Rnd 3 – SC
Stuff leg
Rnd 4 – Dec around (6)
FO

Finishing
Step 1 – If needed, stuff legs firmer. If needed, stuff body firmer through gap between legs.
Step 2 – Stuff arms and sew closed
Step 3 – Embroider face
Step 4 – Deal with yarn ends

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