Squares and Triangles Hat

Leave a comment

Affectionately nicknamed the “I heart grannies” hat.

https://i2.wp.com/img.photobucket.com/albums/v401/butterfly_girl_22/th_S6300561.jpg

This hat doesn’t have to be made with granny squares, but they’re one of the simpler squares out there. I’ve provided instructions for them, but feel free to substitute with any square and triangle pattern you wish. Pay specific attention to anything bold and underlined.

Finished Diameter: Approximately 20 inches

Now this isn’t so much a pattern, as a recipe. I give you the basic direction, and you fill in where needed. You could even knit the squares and triangles if you so desire.

First thing you need is a square pattern. Below is directions for a basic granny square, but feel free to substitute with any square. Instructions are written the best I can for beginners, so please feel free to skip this section if you already know how to make a granny square.

————————————————————————-

Basic Granny Square
Ch 4 and join to first ch with a slst to make a ring.

-Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 3. (3 dc in ring, ch 3) 3 times, join to top of the beginning ch 3. (4 dc groups and 4 ch 3 spaces)

-Slst in each dc to and into next ch3 space. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same space, ch 3, 3 dc in same space, ch 1. *(3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 1) in next ch 3 space. Repeat from * in each remaining ch 3 space. Join to top of original ch 3. (8 dc groups, 4 ch 3 spaces, 4 ch 1 spaces)

-You should see a pattern emerging, so this part is written a little differently. Again, slst to and into the next ch3 space. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same space, ch 3, 3 dc in same space, ch 1.
Next is a chain 1 space. Into this space, put 3 dc and then ch 1.
Now we have a chain 3 space. In this space, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 1).
Continue working around like this, following the instructions for ch1 and ch3 spaces as you come the them. Then join to the top of the starting ch3.

-To keep making the square bigger, simply keep working like the previous round, putting (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1 space you come to, and putting (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 1) in each ch3 space you come to.

I apologize if this has only served to confuse you, as this is simply the way I see granny squares. Here’s a couple of links that might work better for you:
http://pumamouse.com/crochetbasicgrannys.html
http://www.jpfun.com/patterns/free/granny_squares/f101001basicgranny.shtml

————————————————————————-

Next you need to know the size of your finished square. I would suggest sticking to 4 or 5 inch squares, but go ahead and use larger or smaller as you wish.

Divide 20 by the size of your chosen square. This is how many squares you need to make for the diameter. This is why I suggest 4 or 5 inch squares. But as long as it comes out even (or real close to even because most crochet stretches pretty good) you ought to be fine.

Now you need a triangle pattern. I used a basic granny triangle pattern, which is a just a granny square with one less side. If you want to use my instructions for a granny square, simply replace the first round of -Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 3. (3 dc in ring, ch 3) 3 times, join to top of the beginning ch 3. (4 dc groups and 4 ch 3 spaces) with this:

-Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 3. (3 dc in ring, ch 3) 2 times, join to top of the beginning ch 3. (3 dc groups and 3 ch 3 spaces)

This type of triangle tends to turn into a shallow cup but it’s ok.

Measure the length of one side of your triangle and then divide 20 by that amount. That is how many you need. You probably don’t want to go much smaller than 4 inch sides. Smaller than that and your hat will have too small of a crown. If you are using 4 or 5 inch squares, it’s best to use that same size for your triangles to make it easy.

Sew all the squares into a strip. If you want your hat body to be longer than just that strip, feel free to add more rows of squares to the bottom.

Lay the strip horizontally and sew the triangles to the top. If you used triangles the same size as your squares, it’s as simple as sewing one triangle to the top of each square. If they are different sizes, just start at one end and work across.

Sew the ends of the strip to each other to make a loop. Don’t sew the triangles just yet though. This is a good point to try on the hat and see if it fits.

Sew the seams between each triangle. This forms the crown of the hat. Don’t forget to sew up the hole that forms between the top points.

Weave in ends and enjoy!

————————————————————————-

Here is an example showing the specs of my hat

Please excuse the paint diagrams, I didn’t take pictures.

I used red heart super saver and an H hook. Using the granny’s described above, I did four rounds and they turned out to be about 5 inches.

Which means I needed a grand total of 4 of each. Here’s them sewn into a strip with the triangles sewn on top.

Then it was sewn into a ring:

And then the crown was sewn up:

If the written instructions confuse you, I hope these badly drawn diagrams help.

Do note that this ought to work just as good with knitted squares and triangles as it would with crocheted ones.

Top Down Hat Increases for 2×2 Ribbing

3 Comments


This is honestly and truly the warmest hat I have ever had the pleasure to wear.  Yarn is natural colored Lion Brand Fisherman’s Wool dyed with Kool-aid.  The hat is ridiculously simple to knit, and wonderfully soothing in the k2 p2 repetition.  If you’re on Ravelry, check out all the pictures of the hat from just dyed yarn to done. 😀

Note as of April 21, 2012: I have hopefully managed to make my instructions clearer and have added a chart. I’ve always found it a bit disappointing that there aren’t very many top down hat instructions out there. Working from the crown of a hat can be fiddly, but I think it’s worth it because this way you don’t have to guess how much length the crown will add or how much yarn it will take.

Below you will find written instructions for working this hat flat (the way I originally designed it), written instructions for in the round, and a chart that will work for either. You will also find my original “talky version” at the bottom that I had originally written up because I didn’t know how to chart it. I’ve left it in case there are those out there who think like me and find it helpful.

Special Stitches
KP – Knit and then purl into the same stitch
PK – Purl and then knit into the same stitch
How to cast on in a loop
Suggested Bind Off

Gauge
5 sts to 1 inch, however once you get the hang of the increases, it’s easy to adapt this to any stitch count that is a multiple of 8.

 

Written Instructions – FLAT

Co 8 into a loop, leaving a long enough tail to sew hat up with later. Note: There is no selvage stitch included in these instructions

1. (k1, p1) to end – This is the right side
2. (kfb, pfb) to end
3. (k2, pfb twice) to end
4. (k1, kp, pk, k1, p2) to end
5. (k2, pfb twice, k2, p2) to end
6. (k2, p2, k1, kp, pk, k1, p2) to end
7. (k2, pfb twice, [k2, p2] twice) to end
8. ([k2, p2] twice, k1, kp, pk, k1, p2) to end
9. (k2, pfb twice, [k2, p2] 3 times) to end
10. ([k2, p2] 3 times, k1, kp, pk, k1, p2) to end
11. (k2, pfb twice, [k2, p2] 4 times) to end
12. ([k2, p2] 4 times, k1, kp, pk, k1, p2) to end

At this point you will have 96 stitches on the needles.

Work in 2×2 ribbing until it is the length you want, then Bo].  Pull top tight and sew up side.

 

 

Written Instructions – ROUND

Co 8 into a loop and join for working in the round. Note: This is fiddly as heck to begin with in the round, but worth it in my opinion

1. (k1, p1) to end
2. (kfb, pfb) to end
3. (k2, pfb twice) to end
4. (k2, p1, pk, kp, p1) to end
5. (k2, pfb twice, k2, p2) to end
6. (k2, p1, pk, kp, p1, k2, p2) to end
7. (k2, pfb twice, [k2, p2] twice) to end
8. (k2, p1, pk, kp, p1, [k2, p2] twice) to end
9. (k2, pfb twice, [k2, p2] 3 times) to end
10. (k2, p1, pk, kp, p1, [k2, p2] 3 times) to end
11. (k2, pfb twice, [k2, p2] 4 times) to end
12. (k2, p1, pk, kp, p1, [k2, p2] 4 times) to end

At this point you will have 96 stitches on the needles.

Work in 2×2 ribbing until it is the length you want, then Bo]. Pull top tight and sew up side.

 

 

CHART

Click on the chart to view it bigger.

 

 

Talky Version
Because sometimes it’s hard to understand what exactly I’m having you do just from the instructions, here’s basically what’s happening:

-You start with 4 repeats of k1, p1 ribbing in a ring.

-You increase every stitch to make 4 repeats of k2, p2 ribbing

-You increase all of the purls

-Where you have each group of 4 stitches the same, work as such:
a) Work first stitch as is
b) Work second stitch as is, but don’t slip off of needle.  Twist around and work the opposite into the same stitch. (in flat knitting, this stitch is a knit.  Knit into it, then purl into it)
c) Work 3rd stitch opposite and don’t slip off needle.  Twist around and work the opposite of the stitch you just did. (again, in flat knitting you purl and then knit into the same stitch)
d) Finally work last stitch as is

-Now you will increase every other purl ridge.

-Work groups of 4 same stitches as before.

-Now increase every third purl ridge

-Work groups of 4 same stitches as before.

And so on and so on, increasing only in the original 4 purl ridges until you have the required stitch count. (96 stitches for the hat I did)

Then just work 2×2 rib for the required length.  I suggest this bind off because it’s awesomely stretchy.