This is honestly and truly the warmest hat I have ever had the pleasure to wear.  Yarn is natural colored Lion Brand Fisherman’s Wool dyed with Kool-aid.  The hat is ridiculously simple to knit, and wonderfully soothing in the k2 p2 repetition.  If you’re on Ravelry, check out all the pictures of the hat from just dyed yarn to done. 😀

Note as of April 21, 2012: I have hopefully managed to make my instructions clearer and have added a chart. I’ve always found it a bit disappointing that there aren’t very many top down hat instructions out there. Working from the crown of a hat can be fiddly, but I think it’s worth it because this way you don’t have to guess how much length the crown will add or how much yarn it will take.

Below you will find written instructions for working this hat flat (the way I originally designed it), written instructions for in the round, and a chart that will work for either. You will also find my original “talky version” at the bottom that I had originally written up because I didn’t know how to chart it. I’ve left it in case there are those out there who think like me and find it helpful.

Special Stitches
KP – Knit and then purl into the same stitch
PK – Purl and then knit into the same stitch
How to cast on in a loop
Suggested Bind Off

Gauge
5 sts to 1 inch, however once you get the hang of the increases, it’s easy to adapt this to any stitch count that is a multiple of 8.

 

Written Instructions – FLAT

Co 8 into a loop, leaving a long enough tail to sew hat up with later. Note: There is no selvage stitch included in these instructions

1. (k1, p1) to end – This is the right side
2. (kfb, pfb) to end
3. (k2, pfb twice) to end
4. (k1, kp, pk, k1, p2) to end
5. (k2, pfb twice, k2, p2) to end
6. (k2, p2, k1, kp, pk, k1, p2) to end
7. (k2, pfb twice, [k2, p2] twice) to end
8. ([k2, p2] twice, k1, kp, pk, k1, p2) to end
9. (k2, pfb twice, [k2, p2] 3 times) to end
10. ([k2, p2] 3 times, k1, kp, pk, k1, p2) to end
11. (k2, pfb twice, [k2, p2] 4 times) to end
12. ([k2, p2] 4 times, k1, kp, pk, k1, p2) to end

At this point you will have 96 stitches on the needles.

Work in 2×2 ribbing until it is the length you want, then Bo].  Pull top tight and sew up side.

 

 

Written Instructions – ROUND

Co 8 into a loop and join for working in the round. Note: This is fiddly as heck to begin with in the round, but worth it in my opinion

1. (k1, p1) to end
2. (kfb, pfb) to end
3. (k2, pfb twice) to end
4. (k2, p1, pk, kp, p1) to end
5. (k2, pfb twice, k2, p2) to end
6. (k2, p1, pk, kp, p1, k2, p2) to end
7. (k2, pfb twice, [k2, p2] twice) to end
8. (k2, p1, pk, kp, p1, [k2, p2] twice) to end
9. (k2, pfb twice, [k2, p2] 3 times) to end
10. (k2, p1, pk, kp, p1, [k2, p2] 3 times) to end
11. (k2, pfb twice, [k2, p2] 4 times) to end
12. (k2, p1, pk, kp, p1, [k2, p2] 4 times) to end

At this point you will have 96 stitches on the needles.

Work in 2×2 ribbing until it is the length you want, then Bo]. Pull top tight and sew up side.

 

 

CHART

Click on the chart to view it bigger.

 

 

Talky Version
Because sometimes it’s hard to understand what exactly I’m having you do just from the instructions, here’s basically what’s happening:

-You start with 4 repeats of k1, p1 ribbing in a ring.

-You increase every stitch to make 4 repeats of k2, p2 ribbing

-You increase all of the purls

-Where you have each group of 4 stitches the same, work as such:
a) Work first stitch as is
b) Work second stitch as is, but don’t slip off of needle.  Twist around and work the opposite into the same stitch. (in flat knitting, this stitch is a knit.  Knit into it, then purl into it)
c) Work 3rd stitch opposite and don’t slip off needle.  Twist around and work the opposite of the stitch you just did. (again, in flat knitting you purl and then knit into the same stitch)
d) Finally work last stitch as is

-Now you will increase every other purl ridge.

-Work groups of 4 same stitches as before.

-Now increase every third purl ridge

-Work groups of 4 same stitches as before.

And so on and so on, increasing only in the original 4 purl ridges until you have the required stitch count. (96 stitches for the hat I did)

Then just work 2×2 rib for the required length.  I suggest this bind off because it’s awesomely stretchy.

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